Dessert Dump, Summer 2012 Edition

Dessert Dumps are going to become a fixture of summer blogging. It takes much less time to photograph and eat a dessert than it does to write a post, so that I'm overflowing with bloggable desserts in no time but am less full of words for them. So, here's some "blogging lite" on select delicacies from June and July!

Drunken Dutch Delicacies

Have you ever had stroopwafels? I hadn't heard of them until a happily hopped group of us stumbled up to the Bocoup Loft after the American Craft Beer Festival, where a stroopwafel manufacturer had dropped by and left a boxful of product. This pizzelle-like Dutch treat, made of two incredibly thin cookie-sized waffles with caramel pressed between, is intended for enjoyment with a warm beverage - if you set the stroopwafel on a mug of steaming something, that warmth will soften the stroopwafel and melt the caramel, turning it into a gooey, chewy treat. Here is an image of stroopwafels in their ideal use case.

Alas, I was not so careful in my consumption. I snarfed mine rather quickly like it were any old cookie, as befits post-Fest fun and hunger, only pausing to say "yeah, this is good". However, I'd gladly give them a "proper" try. (Bocoupers, are there any left?!)

Italian Finger Desserts

Another summer, another patio party at Dante! This summery fete was a blast due to the company of fellow foodies, literal splashy decor (beach balls and kiddie pools filled with water), local media coverage (yours truly was "Spotted in Boston"!), and, of course, plenty of delicious eats.

I was impressed with the dessert pictured at left. It probably has an official Italian name, but I'm going to call it a genoise cake ball. The two vanilla cake pieces were stuck together with amaretto cream, and the entire ball was then coated in amaretto chocolate and crushed almonds. Delicious and heady, the amaretto-chocolate combination was really winning. Genoise cake is usually so accommodating of creams, ganaches, and liqueurs. At right is an eclair filled with light peach custard and covered in an even lighter peach glaze. The chocolate dipping was sturdy and flavorful.

A Pre-Retreat Repast

It takes four hours to drive from my company's headquarters to our retreat center in Maine. Our caravan of 10 turned it into a day-long excursion, enabling the purchasing of, er, "retreat supplies", a waterfront seafood lunch, and gluten-free desserts along the way! The dessert in question came from Portland, Maine's Bam Bam Bakery. I never would have guessed that my peanut butter bar was gluten-free, it was so full of the usual baked goodies and then some:

The bar had a crumbly shortbread base that was then layered with fudge and marshmallow Fluff. Crisped rice that had been mixed into peanut butter came next, and chocolate chips topped it all off. Ooey, gooey goodness, and just as much of a treat as anything made with standard flour. I only wish I had more water on hand to wash it all down; that peanut butter / Fluff / fudge combination really sticks to your mouth!

Sunday Sugar...and Seafood

What do you do when you go to the North End for a meal at The Daily Catch, only to find that they're closed for the next half-hour? Why, cross Hanover Street to Mike's Pastry, of course, and enjoy an appetizer of dessert! I was glad to revisit this favorite college haunt to try their newer cannoli flavors. When I was in school, the chocolate mousse cannoli was a big deal; now, though, you get an ice cream shop's worth of varieties! Here is my Oreo cannoli, minus a bite or two.

Mike's now crushes Oreo cookies and mixes them with standard ricotta cream cannoli filling. I'm not the hugest fan of ricotta cream - hence that mousse cannoli back in the day - but I absolutely loved it with the Oreos added. (I guess I need my cookies with cream, eh?) The Oreo filling was in a standard cannoli shell dusted with powdered sugar; the fun touch was that both ends were dipped in cookie crumbles! Yum. I didn't sample this espresso cannoli - darn! - but I am told it was delicious.

Also, for the record - The Daily Catch has the. best. scallops. I have ever had!

Thanks for putting up with this blog's on-schedule Dump! Next up will be a full post on an unusual and interesting dinner, with desserts to match...

Stowe Away!

Your blogger just returned from a few glorious days' vacation in Stowe, Vermont! The most memorable parts of this getaway involved winter sports and apres-ski relaxation, but a few desserts (obviously) found their way into the mix. So, what sweetened my vacation?

 

Let's start with a food item I have justified as breakfast as well as dessert: the apple cider donut. This classic New England donut may have found its most ultimate incarnation at Waterbury's Cold Hollow Cider Mill. The donuts are made mere minutes before they are served, with a rather interesting machine that is maybe a meter or so in length. A ring of dough is squirted into a bath of hot oil, which cooks the dough and sweeps it via some small current into a light glaze of shortening. This glaze soaks into the donut as it is pulled out of the oil by a conveyor belt, moved a short distance to help it dry and cool, and then dropped onto some waiting, oil-absorbing paper towels. The apparatus is rather efficient, as it kept up with the steady stream of donut-demanding customers. I understood why there were so many customers as soon as I tried a donut.

The treats are small, but they're positively bursting with apple and spice flavor. Apple varieties are so nuanced, and these donuts captured so many of those nuances, from the tangy and tart to the sturdy and sweet. (That's also a testament to Cold Hollow's wonderful cider, which uses multiple apple varieties in each batch!) Hints of cinnamon and nutmeg helped bring out the complexity. Many cider donuts use too little cider and therefore taste no different than a plain cake donut, or they go overboard with the spices. Cold Hollow avoids both traps and really lets their cider shine. The donuts' texture is unique, too. The edges were crispy, fresh out of the machine and even after a day or two post-making, while the inside remained chewy. It's no surprise that we brought a dozen of these little delights home!

 

After Cold Hollow, we stopped at the store that may be considered my life's introduction to specialty food emporia: Stowe's Harvest Market! Its enticing architecture (a barn-style building made modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows and exposed rafters/beams) and delectable contents (cheese, charcuterie, antipasti, bakery, chocolate, wine, beer, prepared sides) had me hooked from the first time I visited, years ago. As per usual, I left HM with a few containers of their homemade granola - oh so perfect with vanilla yogurt! - and a bakery treat. This year, it was a lemon square. The square had a somewhat-gooey shortbread base, which was delightfully buttery and sweet. The lemon filling was sturdy and tart, somewhere between a custard filling and the standard sugary glop used in most fruit squares. The topping was unusual; instead of the usual crumble topping or repeat of the base layer, it looked as though a basic sugar dough had been spread very thinly over the lemon filling, and left to harden and crackle as the treat was baking. I'm not usually a fan of sugar dough, but in this gooey setting I appreciated its grainy crunch. Turbinado sugar crystals also dotted that top layer, adding a little sparkle. The bakery case was overflowing with other equally tempting treats - muffins, brownies, cookie bars, miniature cakes, and so on. I would have loved to try them, but I knew that ample delights would be waiting at the top of the mountain!

Our lovely mountaintop resort was like heaven for the blissful few days I was there. Cold but not frigid temperatures, a fresh snowfall on top of existing snowpack, and cheerful sunlight all made for a wonderful time exploring the backcountry on skis and snowshoes. Inside, comforting European decor, cozy living rooms, roaring fires, fragrant fresh flowers, and quality locavore fare enabled an equally wonderful time spent relaxing and recharging. I'd like to call out four particular dessert experiences:

• Afternoon tea - every afternoon, the resort offered tea and cookies in the lounge. It felt so good, after a full morning and afternoon of exercise, to come in from the cold, sip something warm, and nibble something sweet. I reliably drank Harney & Sons' Red Raspberry herbal tea, and munched on whatever cookies looked best. I remember having cranberry oatmeal, chocolate chip, and chocolate cake cookies...and on Valentine's Day, a heart-shaped sugar cookie completely covered in red sugar. Yum!
• Lake Champlain chocolates - every evening, staff would come into the guest rooms, turn down your bed, and leave chocolates on your pillow. These heart-shaped Lake Champlain nibbles were so tasty, and the cutest way to end the day! Creamy milk chocolate came in a pinkish-purple wrapper, and smooth dark chocolate was wrapped in bold red.
• The ultimate fudge brownie - the resort's network of cross-country ski trails take you all sorts of interesting places, one of which is a rustic log cabin that offers hearty lunch fare. I skied the winding, uphill trails to the cabin twice during our stay, and was rewarded with one of the most epic brownies I've ever had. Imagine a THICK top layer of fudge, with a brownie underneath that had more textures than you thought was possible in a 3/4"-thick baked good. The part nearest the fudge absorbed the moisture from that fudge and became just as gooey, while the non-fudge surface was dry and crumbly. The intervening brownie fell anywhere on the spectrum between those two extremes. Such a delight! It had such a good chocolate flavor, too. This may become a more compelling reason to ski to the cabin than the beneficial exercise...
• Sachertorte - or, what one bakery staff member called a sachertorte. This Wikipedia article suggests that a genuine sachertorte has chocolate sponge cake and apricot jam, two things our dessert lacked. Still, it was delicious! The cake was very dense and chocolatey, like an extremely concentrated bittersweet chocolate mousse. I don't think it contained any flour, and there was no airiness at all; the cake was smooth enough, with maybe a little graininess from what I'm guessing was cocoa powder. In addition to the robust bittersweet chocolate flavor, the cake had a hint of sourness or tanginess about it, as if sour cream or yogurt were used as its liquid base. The cake was covered in an extremely thin layer of slightly sweeter chocolate; it crackled into eggshell-like pieces when I forked through it. I'm guessing it was applied as a melted drizzle rather than spread with a knife. The cake's top had the pleasant addition of white chocolate dollops, which had been swirled into the existing chocolate coating to make heart-like shapes on the surface. So sweet! You can see the cake here; to its right is a mug of the resort's homebrewed Vienna lager. Ah, dessert and beer. I was clearly happy with this repast, but I'm still in search of a genuine sachertorte.

That search will have to continue in the post-Stowe world, as I am now back in Boston. I miss the slopes and the invigorating mountain air, but a good dose of city life won't hurt! Here's to whatever dessert - and vacation! - may be next.

If The Bakery Has 'Flour' in Its Name...

...I'm going to love it.

Greg has now recommended two establishments with this fortuitous word in their name. First came the Flour, over 2.5 years ago; this blog is pretty much a testament to how that introduction went! Then, just a few weekends ago, came Clear Flour Bread on the Brookline/Allston line, a happy discovery from his recent move to that area. I knew as soon as I smelled the buttery, doughy aroma of the block surrounding the bakery that we would have a memorably delicious breakfast!

The bakery itself has a tiny corner storefront, so tiny that there is room for maybe only 6 patrons inside. We lined up in an orderly fashion along the sidewalk with the rest of the to-be-patrons, and awaited our turn to be granted access. Such lines are a test of my patience, particularly when I can smell the delights I'm waiting for - but, we got there early enough that the line wasn't too long, and we had a box of four pastries ready to go in less time than I've waited in many lines at the other Flour. That Saturday morning was unusually bright and warm for October, so we repaired to a nearby park to share the spoils. Here they are, with their backdrop of Brookline grass.

This sampling of pastries really illustrates Clear Flour's versatility...and excellence. From the upper left, moving clockwise:

• Currant donut - this is easily the most substantive donut I've ever seen. It was breadier than most donuts, too, forsaking all cake-like elements for a more rustic, natural taste. The currants were plump and moist, a far cry from the raisin-like items you usually see in scones. I don't know if they absorbed the batter's moisture, or if this bakery simply uses fresher fruit? Either way, this item was unique. My one bite was more than enough.
• Gruyere croissant - I must wax rhapsodic about this. The croissant was the epitome of flaky, buttery, crisp yet chewy, melt-in-your-mouth pastry goodness. Imagine butter being spun into thin filaments or films, and then made solid, with so many warm, creamy flavors in each delicate flake. And then, to think - they filled that already-perfect baked item with cheese! Gooey, subtle, savory cheese! My tastebuds are whimpering for more as I write this. I challenge anyone to mention a better Bostonian croissant in the comments!
• Chocolate croissant - the same buttery glory of the above, filled with bittersweet pastry chocolate. The chocolate was evenly distributed throughout the croissant's base, leading me to enjoy pastry and filling in most bites. A rare treat.
• Plum tart - this rustic fruit tart was really exemplary, and it puts all daintier fruit pastries/danishes to shame. Heavy puff pastry dough formed the base and sides of the tart, which was then filled with plum slices, the occasional puff pastry dollop, some crumble topping, and a dusting of powdered sugar. Overall, the pastry was sweet, but no one component was overwhelmingly sugary. The puff pastry dough had an almost-sconelike taste, even. The dough touching the plums, and the plums themselves, were pleasantly gooey. I eat plums so rarely that their flavor and texture were an enjoyable surprise. Then, the topping crumbled nicely upon eating. I felt well sated, yet refreshed, after eating the tart.

Here is a close-up of the plum tart. Mmm!

There are few things for which I would gladly hop the T at 9:00AM on a Saturday morning, and honestly, with a Flour location within walking distance of my apartment, I didn't think another bakery 45 minutes away would be one of them. However, Clear Flour has now won that distinction. (As if there were any doubt, with a name like that!) I can't wait to go back.

Julie and Tony's Pumpkin Bakestravaganza

How's that for an event name?

Tony and I had been discussing the possibility of a pumpkin-themed bake-a-thon for some time, and it finally happened last weekend! We may have baked enough items to blanket the entirety of Medford with a cinnamon-and-squash aroma, but even if that didn't happen we surely baked enough items to take care of a week's (and then some) breakfasts and desserts. So, what glorious bounty was produced?

We started with some cutely-named "cinnapastries", which are exactly what their name suggests - pastries flavored with cinnamon. (They use more butter and brown sugar than cinnamon, but those ingredients do not present such superior naming options.) The dough can be made from scratch, but premade pie crust is easier.

• 2 pre-made pie crusts (1 package)
• 1 1/2 sticks butter, separated into 1 stick (softened) and two 2T portions (melted)
• lots of brown sugar
• lots of cinnamon

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Soften the stick of butter, and mix brown sugar in it until the result is uniform. Divide the mixture evenly among the 12 cups of a muffin pan.
3. Roll out the pie crusts, and let them reach room temperature. Spread each crust with the melted 2T butter. Sprinkle - or cover, if you're spice-obsessed like me - the melted butter with cinnamon, and then brown sugar.
4. Roll the crusts back up. Slice each roll/tube into 6 pieces. Place each piece into a cup of the pre-sugarbuttered muffin pan.
5. Bake the cinnapastries for 12-15 minutes. Let them cool for a while after in the pan, until the sugarbutter has hardened. Don't worry about any overflowing sugarbutter - there's still plenty in each cup to moisten and flavor the pastries.

These little treats, suggestive of miniature cinnamon buns, were quite buttery and sweet. The pie crust may look hard, but it was soft and chewy upon biting and essentially melted in my mouth. Each cinnapastry was 3 or 4 bites, but those bites packed the creamy pastry goodness and cinnamon warmth equivalent to a full-sized bun. I'll keep these in mind as bite-sized breakfast treats or cocktail-party desserts - and really, I can't think of a dessert that's easier to make. I also want to try a puff-pastry version.

Next up was the first recipe I made from the Flour cookbook! Flour's pumpkin muffins were an event-appropriate way to welcome the new book. I won't copy the recipe here, but its intricacies deserve some commentary. First of all, the recipe requests 3 T molasses. Neither Tony nor I had molasses, so we substituted the equivalent measure of maple syrup and threw in some brown sugar. Secondly, the recipe uses orange juice in place of traditional muffin moisturizers like oil or milk. Then, I tripled the cinnamon and added an extra dash of cloves.

The end result was truly unique. The orange juice really brightened the fresh pumpkin flavor and gave a pleasing hint of citrus zing to the squashy cake. The citrus was also great in tandem with the heavy spicing - cloved oranges, anyone? The muffins were beyond moist, but in a light and fresh way rather than the heavy way associated with oil. The syrup/sugar molasses substituion had no adverse effect on the muffins' consistency, but it did not add enough flavor. These muffins would benefit from molasses' robust, earthy heartiness - if only to take them away from the metaphorical farmers' market and closer to a cozy autumn hearth. Even with their fruit-and-vegetable quality, these muffins are still delicious - and the recipe makes a lot of them. The batter yielded 18 total muffins, 50% more than expected. I'm so glad I received an insight into the creative baking conducted at Flour, as well as a week's worth of breakfast delights. I've eaten these muffins for 7 days in a row, and I'm still not sick of them!

Our last treats were Pilgrim Pies - or, to those who don't give seasonal desserts seasonal names, pumpkin whoopie pies. Here is the recipe; remember to add my token tripling of cinnamon.

• 2 eggs
• 2 C light brown sugar
• 1 C vegetable oil
• 1 t vanilla
• 1 15oz can pumpkin
• 3 C flour
• 1/2 t cinnamon, 1/4 t nutmeg, 1/4 allspice - This is my equivalent of the recipe's 1 t of "pumpkin pie spice."
• 1 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1 t salt
• (frosting) 4 oz cream cheese, softened
• (frosting) 1 stick butter, softened
• (frosting) 2 t vanilla
• (frosting) 4-5 C confectioners' sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Beat the eggs, brown sugar, oil, and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl until smooth. Stir in the pumpkin.
3. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, spices, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
4. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture 1/2 C at a time, blending each time until smooth.
5. Drop a heaping tablespoon of batter onto an ungreased cookie sheet, using a moist finger or the back of a spoon to slightly flatten each mound. Bake the cookies for 12 minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
6. Meanwhile, make the frosting. Beat together the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla extract in a bowl until light and fluffy. Mix in the confectioners' sugar 1/2 C at a time, until the desired consistency is reached. 4 cups of sugar resulted in a surprisingly stiff, but still spreadable, frosting.
7. To assemble the pies, turn half of the cookies bottom side up and spread a generous amount of cream cheese frosting on each one. Top them with the remaining cookies (turned right side up).

The recipe's expected yield is 10-14 complete pies. We decided to make 14 individual cookies, or 7 pies, and pour the remaining batter into two 8"x8" baking dishes to make a giant-sized pie. Fortunately, there was enough batter and frosting to make thick, fully-filled pies of both sizes. The large pie was left in the oven for three additional minutes, which was enough to cook it to completion.
The resultant Pilgrim Pies had moist, fluffy, pumpkin-y cake. The cake was much softer than the frosting, which was stiff and sugary with a faint cream cheese flavor. I would have expected the frosting to be grainier with so little cream cheese and butter to absorb the sugar, but its texture was surprisingly smooth. I preferred to eat my pies slightly chilled, so that the frosting was dense, cool, and refreshing - but, Tony's preferred 15-second microwave treatment resulted in equally-tasty warm pies dripping with gooey filling.

Here are the traditional pies:

And, here is the Macrowhoopie along with all other Bakestravaganza delights. My coworkers polished this monster off rather quickly:

What a tempting spread of autumnal desserts! Now, please excuse me as I help myself to another muffin...

Petsi Treats

Petsi Pies, as their name may suggest, is known for their excellent pies and tarts. This Somerville bakery also offers a variety of other treats, which a few us sampled after lunch today. I may have found the best cupcake in Boston, as well as other inspiring cakes and cookies.

• Whoopie Pie Cupcake - this cupcake was better than any whoopie pie I have ever had, and could be better than the products of most cookie-cutter cupcakeries in the area. (Yes, the excellence of this item makes me question my earlier devotion to Sweet!) The cake part proper is dense and fudgy, with moist crumbs. I could see the rich semisweet chocolate used in the batter being equally at home in fudge, or a dense chocolate sauce. The cake eclipses average cupcake content and could be served as a torte in the finest restaurants. The center of the cupcake is injected with a refreshingly light, whipped vanilla cream. This cream comes as a surprise, though, since the cupcake's top is covered in a thick layer of smooth dark chocolate ganache. The union of these three flavors and textures is just perfect, and I found myself sad after taking the last bite.
  
• Carrot Cake Cupcake - this confection pushes the boundary of what a cupcake can be. Most carrot cakes are sweetened, or deprived of certain savory ingredients, to better pass as a traditionally sugary and dainty cupcake; Petsi Pies does not take that step. A hearty helping of carroty, nutty, raisiny cake is frosted in a dome of barely-sweet cream cheese icing. The requisite carrot accent of orange and green icing is the only concession to cuteness this cupcake makes. I respect them for not compromising the integrity of their standard recipe; though, as someone who doesn't go for nuts or raisins in baked goods, I won't order this one myself.
  
• Ginger Molasses Cookie - This large, thick cookie is crunchy at the edges, but becomes chewier towards the center. The taste of light molasses, reminiscent of a generous helping of brown sugar, is the dominant flavor, while ginger serves as an accent. Each bite includes a bit of sugary crunch and sweetness, thanks to the cookie's sparkly coating of turbinado sugar. In other words, this cookie is a great interpretation of a winter classic.
  
• Sweet Potato Crumb Cake - I thank this bakery for introducing me to my first sweet potato cake. A moist sour-cream-based crumble coffee cake conceals a center of mashed sweet potato mixed with hearty brown sugar crumbles. What an unexpected treat! You may see an attempt at recreating such a treat chronicled in this blog come fall.

I had visited Petsi once prior, and thoroughly enjoyed a lemon scone that was pertly flavored with zest and topped in a strong, tart glaze. I will also be enjoying one of their blueberry muffins, purchased to go during today's visit, for breakfast tomorrow. After that, I might have to go back for a fruit or chocolate pie!

Flour Bakery vs The Snack Aisle

In eating lunch at Flour Bakery's Fort Point location this weekend, we decided to break away from our usual cupcake-and-muffin baked-good order and try their take on two snacks known to grocery shoppers everywhere: the Pop Tart and Oreo cookie! Needless to say, both were infinitely tastier than their processed-food counterparts.

Flour's pop tart is a thick shell of puff pastry dough folded around a pile of thick, seedy, flavorful raspberry jam. The baked tart is then covered in a thin confectioner's sugar glaze with a barely-perceptible taste of lemon. It sounds so simple - and it is! - but I had never had a filled fruit pastry that was so successful in fruit, pastry, and overall taste. The flaky, buttery, vanilla-flavored pastry was a delight on its own or with the glaze, but the best bites included the robust jam. You won't find this kind of flavor in the breakfast aisle! I only wish that the jam had been spread more evenly throughout the tart.

Flour's oreo is a sandwich of two thick, dry, yet chewy cocoa-powder cookies and vanilla filling that tasted equally of buttercream and cream cheese frosting. As for the cookies, the traditional oreo taste was kicked up a notch due to more cocoa powder than the mass-produced inspiration, as well as a good amount of butter to hold it together. The slight chewiness was also appreciated. Why? (1) 'Tis a sign of freshness! (2) The buttery cocoa flavor could be more thoroughly enjoyed. (3) The moist filling would have slipped out upon biting two harder, cardboard-style cookies. The filling was a delight - while I initially thought it was the whipped buttercream frosting used in Flour's cupcakes, I detected a taste of cream cheese in later bites that served the filling well. Cream cheese would have thickened the frosting and therefore made it more stable for inclusion in a cookie, and it also added a slight tang to the overall flavor that blended marvelously with the bitter cocoa in the cookie. I'll definitely order some oreos again - if not for immediate eating in the bakery, then to go as a snack for later!