Labor Day Desserts

Hello from the other side of Labor Day! This early September post brings tidings of how I spent - or more specifically, ate during - my long weekend. I visited towns of the new and port varieties, doing Newburyport, MA one day and Newport, RI another. Your blogger is a sucker for New England seaside villages, so she got the most out of summer's last hurrah.

Newburyport

Ah, Newburyport - perhaps my favorite of all those villages, the place I could easily visit each weekend, the town which every other town should emulate. My family has a bit of history with the area, so I try to get there each summer. I'm so glad I was able eat fresh seafood at Michael's, sample fresh beer at Newburyport Brewing Company, enjoy live music in the waterfront park, browse endearing local shops, and eat raspberry chip ice cream at Gram's Homemade Ice Cream.

Gram's makes many fantastic flavors, but years (decades?) of trips have led me to zero in on this one. The raspberry flavor of this bright pink ice cream is not the diluted, overly saccharine version you usually find. Rather, it is bright and tangy, with a freshness (and occasional seed) that convinces me that real berries are in it. Imagine a sorbet's pert flavor with an ice cream's composition. Then, it has two kinds of chocolate chips! First, we have large, flat, semisweet chips. These brittle additions add a nice crunch, though they don't really melt in your mouth. Then, we have the scene-stealers. Imagine the tiniest possible peanut butter cups, but instead of having peanut butter on the inside, they're filled with raspberry jam. Such glorious nuggets were liberally incorporated into the ice cream, so that one could get tangy berry freshness, smooth creaminess, a bitter chocolate crunch, the warmth of milk chocolate, and a small burst of fruit all in one bite. A treat if I've ever had one!

Gram's always gets me going, but I was beyond excited to discover a new bakery off State Street! Buttermilk Baking Company's unassuming sign somehow caught my eye; when I walked up to their storefront and opened the door, I knew I had found the Clear Flour of Newburyport. You're greeted by the heady scent of warm, buttery dough and fresh fruit; you see cases filled with fruit tarts, pies, cakes, cookies, scones, all with that hearty and rustic look. It turns out that they're a year-old farm-to-table operation that clearly takes pride in what they've hand-made from local sources. (Thanks to Buttermilk's site [linked above] for this image!)

I took a small peach raspberry pie home, and boy, did it deliver! It made a fantastic visual impression, due to a lightly browned crust ornamented with sparkling turbinado sugar and occasional oozed filling. Also, I love the little dough heart that crowned it all!

The interior was similarly impressive. The filling had peach slices, finely-chopped peach bits, and whole raspberries, reduced by the oven into a soft and gooey mixture. I doubt any sugar was added to the filling, it was so delightfully tart. There may have been spices in there - I couldn't quite place what I'd call a faint chutney quality - but that quality didn't take away from the main event, the superior fresh fruit.

The combination of crust and filling was perfection. The crust was solid, chewy, and buttery, and it really stood up to the dense filling. Its bottom and sides did not get soggy! No flimsy flakes here, phew. The filling had mostly settled into the pie's base, but the top crust crumbled nicely (with its crunchy sugary bits!) into the filling to guarantee all bites had fruit and pastry.

Buttermilk offers a wide range of pies. I wonder what they'll have when I'm next in town. Will I bring home an apple cranberry? A strawberry rhubarb? Or even a Mississippi Mud?!

Newport
I saw a different side of Rhode Island's tony town this weekend. A past excursion involved the lovely Cliff Walk and amblings among stately homes, while this trip centered on the (unfortunately tourist-trap-like) shopping area and waterfront scene. At least there were delicious desserts among the tacky tees!

To me, fudge isn't eaten under "normal" circumstances. I won't crave it in the city or my hometown. Rather, I'll get it on getaways only. It's like it can't exist without quaint architecture, wildflower gardens, cobblestone streets, a town square, and fresh mountain or seaside air. Fortunately, such places tend to have at least one small-batch fudgery - and Newport was no exception! The Newport Fudgery's fudge is hand-whipped in copper kettles; imagine churning butter on a larger (and tastier) scale. They had at least 10 flavors available, so I left with (only) two! I ate the gooey treats over the next few days. I don't have pictures for you, but one description might get your mouth watering.

The fudge's texture was perfect - talk about incredibly smooth and consistent, entirely lacking the graininess that often spoils fudge. Flavor-wise, I'm happiest with the chocolate peanut butter fudge. It was a creamy, harmonious blend of milk chocolate and peanut butter; I really can't imagine a better expression of those two ingredients together. The only downside? It had occasional peanuts mixed in, which got soggy over time. Gross! The triple chocolate fudge was much less appealing, even though it lacked nuts. I thought of Baker's chocolate squares, fudgified - sure, you can tell it's made predominantly from semisweet chocolate (as the other two chocolate flavors stayed hidden), but there's also a waxy, chalky taste that really disappoints. I wonder if more sugar would have helped? This was my first semisweet fudge, and I won't need another.

I ate a completely different dessert on-site! Newport Cookie Company has a delightful bakery store that offers cookies, cupcakes, and ice cream in a tea room-inspired setting. Their big draw, for us, was the make-your-own ice cream sandwich. You could choose any of their varied cookie offerings, and an ice cream flavor, to create your own dessert heaven. I chose a heath bar cookie, a chocolate peanut butter chip cookie, and cookies 'n' cream ice cream.

Look at that monster! The ice cream was made by Gifford's, a Maine creamery whose distribution pattern seems to match wherever I'm allowed to have fudge. (I've seen their New England-inspired flavors before, at Woodman's of Essex - a fried-seafood institution just a short drive from Crane Beach.) Their cookies 'n' cream flavor is solid, though they use more Oreo crumbs than actual cookie pieces. The cookie "bread" was what really stole the show! The chocolate peanut butter chip cookie was lumpy and soft, almost like a chewy brownie, with a pleasantly rich chocolate flavor. The chips were sweet and gooey, obviously preferable to actual peanuts. The heath bar cookie was flatter and stronger, made of a sugar cookie dough with heath bar crumbles scattered throughout. I appreciated the cookie's (very high) candy density! I love the caramel notes and solid crunch that toffee brings to baked goods.

That said, these three parts didn't stay together too well. I spooned most of my ice cream out the sandwich's sides, and broke off cookie pieces as they crumbled away. However, those cookie bits that got soggy with melting ice cream were particularly good.

I'd stop by the Cookie Company again, though who knows if I'd get a cookie? I might have to encourage their tendency to decorate with my favorite color - seriously, all non-cookie items had purple flourishes - by buying a cupcake. :-)

Frozen Vegan Delights

I am an omnivore who enjoys the wide variety of food options before her. I'm thankful I don't have any allergies, etc, that prevent my enjoyment of the world's edibles - though if I were allergic to, say, dairy, I just learned that I could still enjoy ice cream!

Boston's Allston neighborhood has a wealth of eclectic foods, covering every possible ethnic and dietary niche. Several vegan establishments have popped up along the northern edge of Union Square, the most recent being FoMu Alternative Ice Cream. I was initially apprehensive of vegan ice cream; after all, what non-cream substance could approximate...cream...in a way that was authentic to texture and taste? Fear not, fellow skeptics. You can tell there's something different about FoMu, but it's not a bad difference.  The texture is similar to a thick ice cream, though a tad more crystalline. Also, some frozen desserts made from non-dairy milks are even better than traditional  ice cream, depending on the flavors involved. To illustrate that point, check out this Spiced Carrot Cake ice cream:

FoMu uses almond and cashew butter as the foundation of this "cream". Add a wealth of spices; large crumbs from incredibly moist, veg-filled vegan carrot cake, and voila - you have a rich treat that is just bursting with flavor. The almond and cashew butters don't impart too much nuttiness, but they create an earthier, heartier-tasting base than dairy cream. Carrot cake is an inherently nutty dessert, so the filling complements the base well. The vegan cake is also exceptionally moist, since wetter oils or fruit/veg purees replace eggs as the usual wet cake ingredients - and more moisture always means more flavor in baking. As for the spices? Well, spices and nuts have gone together, better, and more consistently, than spices and dairy ever have. This treat is one of the best combination desserts I've seen.

The Mocha Bean smoothie (shown here with Maple Walnut ice cream and a vegan cinnamon bun) is another example of nuts adding to the dessert experience.

This smoothie uses FoMu's espresso and chocolate ice creams, both of which have a soy base, and a milk of your choice - soy, rice, or almond. I've only had it with almond milk, since I find almonds' sweet nuttiness a good complement to coffee. Also, why be redundant by adding soy milk to soy ice cream? The resulting smoothie is a cool, creamy, and undeniably fresh concoction with milky chocolate, gentle espresso, and mild almond flavors. I'd say that freshness is a distinguishing characteristic of soy, which I love. I only tried a spoonful of the Maple Walnut ice cream, but I was struck by its strong, authentic maple flavor and its use of raw - as in, NOT toasted - walnuts. The cinnamon bun, on the other hand, was a waste. The pastry itself was stiff and airy, like a dried sponge. The glaze had an off-putting orange flavor, as if the zest flavoring it incorporated too much rind. FoMu should stick to their mock-dairy treats, and vegan cakes, instead of attempting other pastries. 

I highly recommend FoMu whenever you're feeling adventurous about ice cream. Also, it's the perfect thing to cap off a night whiled away at Deep Ellum or Lone Star!

A Whirlwind of NYC Food

I still owe you the details on London's Afternoon Tea, but let's momentarily divert our attention to a closer metropolis and its plentiful food offerings!

Several of my college friends converged upon New York City this past weekend! Carr and I came from Boston; Linda traveled up from Philadelphia, and Mary and Steph already lived as close as you can get in Hoboken. This happy mini-reunion involved catching up, urban exploration, and - surprise, surprise - delicious food. Let's go through the many and varied eats of Saturday, July 14!

Stop 1: Sugar Sweet Sunshine

We had 30 minutes to kill before our lunch table would be ready. We were near a renowned cupcakery. We all like cupcakes. What did we do? Stop by Sugar Sweet Sunshine, of course, and get cupcakes to go! Ok, those reasons may not qualify for SSS' top ten, but we felt they were more than valid.

I really enjoyed my last visit to SSS, so I was glad to return and introduce others to their delights. I left with the Goodie Goodie (dark chocolate cake with whipped peanut butter buttercream) and carried it back to lunch, then to the High Line, down the length of said park, and around Chelsea Market, until (a) it was a warm mess of a dessert with frosting smeared and melted all over the wax paper bag, and (b) I thought I might have room for it. Talk about a well-traveled dessert! Fortunately, it tasted much better than it looked at that point. The frosting was extremely light, like a whisper of what frosting usually is, with a very subtle and sweet peanut flavor. The chocolate cake had a stronger cocoa flavor, though it was a bit dry. I blame the heat!

Stop 2: The Meatball Shop

Lunch at The Meatball Shop was one of the best meals I've had year-to-date. The shop's premise is simple enough: take meatballs, drench them in sauce, and serve them with or over a side. What's astounding is how impressively good each component is, and how much you get! Take it all in with your eyes, and then imagine me taking it all in with my eyes and stomach..

I ordered the classic beef meatballs with parmesan cream sauce over freshly-milled polenta. The meatballs were hearty and flavorful, consisting of all-natural beef mixed with prosciutto, ricotta cheese, and oregano. The sauce was thick and fragrant with tangy Parmesan cheese, much better than the average alfredo or cheese sauce. The polenta, a true food of the gods with its mashed-potato-meets-cornbread quality, was an ideal consistency - smooth and creamy, with occasional distinct cornmeal grains that gave it texture. As if that weren't enough, shaved cheese was sprinkled over the top of it all. Each bite was the very height of savory decadence.

The deliciousness didn't end there! The presence of the aforementioned cupcakes-to-go did not prevent us from ordering the Shop's signature dessert. They offered customizable ice cream sandwiches, made from store-made ice cream and cookies. They even let you choose two different cookies for the "bread" of the sandwich! So, here is my espresso ice cream with chocolate chip and brownie walnut cookies.

The ice cream was light, more like frozen milk than cream. I appreciated that after the heavy lunch, and it also let the bright espresso flavor assert itself rather than be overwhelmed by the cream. The brownie walnut cookie was moist, chewy, and chocolatey, with (fortunately) fewer nuts than expected; the chocolate chip cookie, though, was dry and forgettable. Now that I've tried the ice cream sandwich, I don't feel the need to repeat it; however, I would gladly re-indulge in a meatball lunch/dinner at the earliest opportunity!

Stop 3: Blue Bottle Coffee

We were quite thirsty after walking the length of The High Line, so we found refreshment at Blue Bottle Coffee. Their cold-brew single origin iced coffee was positively bursting with flavor! I detected the usual cocoa and caramel notes, as well as something fruitier and tangier that I couldn't quite place. Could it have something to do with bean terroir and roasting protocol? (Why didn't I ask the former barista among us?!)

Stop 4: Chelsea Market

Chelsea Market is in a vast building under The High Line, right across the street from Blue Bottle. We naturally moved toward it. It's an indoor labyrinth filled with miniature shops (in store form, not stalls or carts) selling everything from pastries to lobster. Look at the pretty main hall, with its colorful lanterns!

We were still full from the Lower East Side's ballstravaganza; otherwise, I'm sure we would have indulged in a Market treat while there. Instead, I got a brownie to go from the Fat Witch Bakery!

Yes, I bought a brownie advertising an overrated musical. But it was the mint chocolate brownie! And it proved its worth when I snacked on it two days later. As you can see, it's sprinkled with green sugar crystals. They added a nice, sweet crunch. Less visible are the equally green mint chips mixed throughout the brownie, but clustered more toward its bottom.They were soft and creamy, and their mint flavor thoroughly imbued the surrounding batter. The brownie reminded me of a cake bite, having the same fudgy texture as those little treats, but its chocolate wasn't as strong or mouth-coating as fudge. Even though my preferred chocolate threshold was unmet, I'd recommend this Witch for its texture and assertive, sweet mintiness.

At this point, we washed our cupcakes down with whatever coffee was left, and headed back to the East Village.

Stop 5: Maharlika

Believe it or not, it was nearly dinnertime! We chilled at Yuca, sipping on sangria for an hour or so...

...before moving on to Maharlika, a modern Filipino restaurant. I was SO excited to try Flilipino cuisine after learning about the culture in college. We split appetizers of chicharron and lechon kawali, flavorful pork rinds and belly, respectively. (To quote one thread of conversation: "You gotta love a culture that knows what to do with pork!") We also sipped on calamansi juice, a refreshing beverage made from a citrus fruit native to the Philippines. Imagine a delicate juice subtly tasting of lime, lemon, and orange, with just a hint of tartness and sweetness, and none of the usual citrus bitterness. It was the perfect summer drink! Then, I had the tender and flavorful chicken adobo for dinner.

Plump pieces of chicken marinate in soy-based abodo sauce before being simmered in the same sauce and browned afterward. The chicken is served in more sauce, with steamed rice on the side. I enjoyed the soft, moist meat; the peppery, garlicky adobo flavor; and the fragrant white rice's soaking up the sauce. I got busog rather quickly, to use the restaurant's Tagalog word of the day. If only I could have taken leftovers home for the following night!

Stop 6: Momofuku Milk Bar

Our walk toward nighttime birthday festivities took us past the East Village outpost of Momofuku Milk Bar. I've been kind of obsessed with this bakery since I browsed their cookbook in a bookstore a while back, and wanted to bake or try most things from it. How did I satisfy a dessert dream while being too full for dessert? By getting something for later, of course. I enjoyed their birthday cake truffles the following day during the trip back to Boston. The truffles got smushed in transit, losing all photographic potential - so, here's a bakery shot from their press kit.

The truffles were really cute. Imagine small, round cake bites, made from yellowy-brown cake and crushed rainbow sprinkles. Their exterior was coated in drier crumbs of the same cake, plus some intact sprinkles. Adorable! All other characteristics matched their cheerful appearance, bringing any number of childhood treats and moods to mind. The cake was moist and chewy, much denser than, say, a Funfetti cake. The sprinkles added another kind of chewy texture to the mix. Then, they were flavored to the max with vanilla - and sugar. They were almost too sweet, which I could not have handled in a larger amount of truffles or an actual cake slice. Still, I loved that Milk Bar was able to pack so much dessert into a tiny package. It gave me enough of a taste of their wares that I wanted more! Maybe a Cereal Milk latte and candy bar pie from their Brooklyn flagship bakery...or, something I make when I finally buy that cookbook?

*cue unprecedented food coma here*

I hope you enjoyed that New York day in the life of a Boston foodie. Here's to my next trip - and whatever I sample next at any of the above establishments!

A Weekend of Celebratory Desserts

I had a really fun birthday party the other weekend! Not surprisingly, I enjoyed a few desserts in the hours preceding it.

A cliff-diving event at the ICA – where, yes, people voluntarily plunged nearly 100 feet off the museum into Boston Harbor!?! – brought Greg, Rob, and me to Boston's Fort Point neighborhood. We had to eat lunch at my favorite outpost of Flour Bakery prior! I departed from usual Flour protocol this time, eschewing my tried-and-true favorites and ordering two untested items. Their BLT sandwich was truly exemplary, and will become part of my regular sandwich rotation. The purest joy, however, came with a new dessert offering! I hereby introduce you to Flour's Congo bar. Here is its richly textured surface…

…and here is the glory that lies beneath.

The bar’s rather thick base is a brown sugar cookie thoroughly marbled with pastry chocolate. A thinner layer of the same chocolate, mixed with caramel and coconut flakes, covers the cookie base. Then, the treat is covered in more coconut flakes and topped off with a few caramel drizzles. This was a very sturdy, dense, rich dessert. However, each bite melted into creamy, sweet goodness soon after I took it.  Just think – a warm, buttery cookie; fudgy, fragrant chocolate; fluffy, sweet coconut; and milky, silky caramel, all mixed and layered together to create one ultimate dessert. Wow! I’ll surely be scanning Flour’s displays for this whopper of a treat in the future.

(You shouldn’t be surprised that I loved the Congo bar, since my weakness for robust layered cookie bars has already been documented. Speaking of which, I was in Belfast the other week…and had two Caramelitas. That’s right. Two.)

Party time was upon us before we knew it, so we hastily traveled back to Cambridge and considered Inman Square “dinner” options. I put the word dinner in quotes because Christina’s Ice Cream shouldn’t have fit the bill, but I guess one is allowed to get away with extraordinary indulgences on one’s birthday. Look at this most delicious of sundaes!

Coffee oreo ice cream, with an honest, unsweetened coffee flavor and large oreo chunks? Check. Peanut butter chip ice cream, with a similarly natural, nutty base flavor and tasty chocolate pieces? Check. Crushed peanut butter cup topping, made of candies that put Reese’s to shame? Check. Homemade hot fudge and whipped cream, both of which make you rethink all notions of what these toppings should be, in the best way? Check. The resulting amalgamation gave me all the energy I needed to dance the night away. And boy, did I dance :-)

But wait – there’s more!

Linda and I spent the following day putzing around Harvard Square. We dropped by Sweet for a cupcake later that afternoon. I enjoyed the Red, White, and You cupcake, which I first tried two years ago! It’s a vanilla bean cupcake injected with mixed berry jam, topped with a towering dollop of vanilla buttercream frosting, and garnished with an avalanche of crunchy red sugar. It’s still rather delicious, though the frosting was significantly lighter than I remember; they must be whipping it nowadays?

Lastly, here’s a huge shout-out to my wonderful friends, who made my birthday so special! Y’all are amazing. :-)

Portsmouth Pleasures

I recently had the pleasure of visiting Portsmouth, NH two weekends in a row! I love this seaside town for its cheerful downtown, seaside park, cute and eclectic shops, and fun food. Of course, two of my favorite food vendors are dessert shops.

Annabelle’s Ice Cream is served in a cheerful basement off a waterfront side street. Their all-natural ice cream has a certain creamy, thick solidity that really packs a punch in a small volume. Because of its density, I find that it tastes best after being out of the freezer for a few minutes. Flavors are fairly common mixed creations that are made unique by the foundation ice cream’s quality.

• Peanut Butter Fantasy – sweet peanut butter ice cream is swirled with fudge and small chunks of peanut butter cups. The base ice cream is rather like sweet cream ice cream with peanut butter mixed in; I prefer this approach to the more extreme scoop of frozen peanut butter. Thick ribbons of fudge are mixed throughout this flavor, but there are rather few candy chunks.
• Mocha Mud Pie – chocolate chips and crumbled Oreos are mixed into a robust mocha ice cream. The signature Annabelle’s creaminess is great in this base flavor, as it really approximates a frozen version of my favorite espresso beverage. As with the Peanut Butter Fantasy, I wish there had been more mixers, but all in all this is a solid flavor that I would order again.

Our party enjoyed certain bolder flavors as well, like Ginger Fruit (sweet cream and crystallized ginger). I hear it was pungent yet refreshing!

Byrne & Carlson Chocolatier and Confectioner, a relatively recent find, has a one-room, antique-looking shop in a Portsmouth brownstone. The high ceilings, cream walls, dark wood cabinetry filled with candies, and clean, old-fashioned label type make me feel as though I have stepped into a treat shop of yore – a very fine one, mind you. Truffles and dark chocolate bars are their specialty, though in my two visits I sampled a range of their product.

• Chocolate-covered sea salt caramels – a nearly one-inch-square cube of stiff, sugary caramel is enrobed in a thin layer of dark chocolate and dusted with large crystals of fleur de sel. The salt lingered in my mouth after the chocolate coating had melted, so it blended nicely with the sweet caramel. I would have preferred a thicker layer of chocolate, or even a milder variety that would have been less distinct from the caramel; I would have guessed the percent cacao was around 70.
• Chipotle sea salt bar – I was intrigued by the variety of flavors in this bar, but it didn’t live up to my expectations. I think the 75% cacao content is too much bitterness for a bar with two savory components. The fleur de sel was robust and slightly smoky, and the chipotle pepper asserted itself with a spicy burn that lasted long after the chocolate had melted. The chocolate, as with all their offerings, was even and silky, and I may have been able to enjoy it as a pure chocolate bar, but I really needed something sweet to counter the salt and pepper! Lovers of intense dark chocolate, this bar is probably exactly what you need.
• Malted milk balls – I couldn’t get enough of these, they were so delicious! (Please keep in mind, this is coming from the girl who pouted if some unsuspecting neighbor gave out boxes of Whoppers for Halloween – so, praise indeed.) B&C’s Ultimate MMB has a small malted-milk center, followed by layers of dark, milk, and white chocolate. A speckled tan candy shell coats the treat. There were so many delicious chocolates in each bite, arranged in an ideal flavor progression, and the rough malted milk was surprisingly sweet and texturally satisfying against the smooth, bitter dark chocolate neighboring it.
• Truffle eggs – yes, eggs; we couldn’t ignore the corner of Easter remainders. Each miniature truffle egg has a sweet, slightly tangy truffle filling enrobed in creamy milk chocolate. The eggs instantly softened in my mouth, and melted into a buttercream-like chocolate paste that was pure decadence but not nearly enough volume. These treats lasted too briefly! I’ll seriously have to consider supplementing next year’s Fannie May Easter candy with a haul from Byrne & Carlson.

I have already decided that whenever I’m next in town, I will have to sample more milk chocolate, a different type of malted milk ball (there were several!), and maybe even a truffle. Care to join me?

California Dessertin': Feeling Fruity

Peach Cobbler at The Monk's Kettle

This dessert ended my favorite meal of the vacation, and one of my favorite meals of the year. The Monk's Kettle features Belgian-style beers and fresh, quality interpretations of comfort classics. Bostonians, imagine a smaller, Californified Publick House. I wasn't sure if their desserts could reach the same degree of excellence as my pot pie of the day, but our dessert choice definitely did. The cobbler was served in a small crock fresh out of the oven; the juices dribbling out of the crock may have been bubbling! The peach slices within the cobbler were a variety of thicknesses and the perfect degree of ripeness. Some sugar was mixed in, clearly, but not enough to mask that fresh peach tartness or make the dessert overly syrupy. The crumble topping was thick and oaty with a hint of cinnamon. It may have walked the line between savory and sweet, which I historically consider perfect for peaches. The crumbly dough was then topped with vanilla bean ice cream and garnished with mint. The ice cream melted rather quickly given the oven freshness of the dessert - so, each bite was a delightful combination of tart peaches, buttery cinnamon crumble, and cool vanilla. Does it get better than this?

Mulligan's Farms

It is finally time for Mulligan’s, the storied ice cream stand of my New Hampshire days, to get the blog mention it deserves. Well, I must clarify a few things first: while I might live in the Boston area currently, I still frequent Mulligan’s whenever I head back to Londonderry to visit my family. So, the NH days still exist, in a manner of speaking. Secondly, this purveyor of desserts is not even in NH – it’s in Tyngsboro, MA, a town bordering NH, which is about 25 minutes from where I grew up. Lastly, my family and I are the only ones who know this place as Mulligan’s. Any other person would call the stand Sullivan Farms Homemade Ice Cream. Why do we call it Mulligan’s, you ask? Well, that doesn’t have any impact on the quality of the ice cream made there…and believe me, it is delicious.

The actual ice cream used at Mulligan’s is thick and creamy, but not creamy to the point of tasting fatty. The flavors are enjoyable – chocolate is light and milky, almost like Swiss chocolate; French vanilla is creamy with the palest yellow color; strawberry strikes the perfect balance between fruit and milk tastes; mint is strong yet sweet, and of course a lovely light green. With these ice creams as bases, Mulligan’s uses the typical ice cream mix-ins to put the best possible spin on the usual flavor combinations. Any chip variety is packed full of chips of varying sizes and textures. Candy ice creams are filled with candy pieces. Cookie flavors contain ground-up cookie powder as well as huge cookie chunks. Swirl ice creams contain enough of the swirled item – fudge, caramel, etc – to be considered a frozen sundae. Two of my favorite inspired flavors are:

• Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup –Swiss chocolate ice cream swirled with peanut butter, and peanut butter cup chunks as well as full cups mixed in
• Mopman’s Grasshopper Pie – a Julie flavor if there ever was one, this ice cream has pretty much all I would want in a dessert, in one scoop: mint ice cream with chocolate chips, Oreo cookies (both crumbs and pieces / entire cookies), and thick, luxurious fudge swirls

Essentially, I can’t think of a better place to fulfill one’s need for traditional, homestyle ice cream. If you’re in the mood for something other than a scoop or two, their sundaes are also delicious, with plenty of rich homemade fudge drizzled over mounds of ice cream. The deal is made even sweeter when you consider the value for your money – a “kiddie” at Mulligan’s is the equivalent of a generous medium, or skimpy large, at any Boston-area creamery; and yes, that’s the smallest size they offer.

So, if you’re in southern New Hampshire for any reason, or taking Route 3 north to a vacation in the Lakes Region or White Mountains, or are simply in the mood for a dessert-themed escape from urban Massachusetts, you owe it to yourself to stop at Mulligan’s. Bring me back a tub of Mopman’s – yes, they will pack mass quantities to go!

Brooklyn and the Lower East Side

May's trip to New York City, plus recommendations from current and former residents, inspired a new round of dessert tasting when I was back in town in mid-June.

When impromptu city wandering led us to the Lower East Side, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit Sugar Sweet Sunshine, baker of delectable cupcakes. These cupcakes are infinitely superior to Magnolia's (though, alas, I did not see a single instance of purple frosting) in both cake and frosting. The cakes themselves are light - you can eat two cupcakes after a large meal, no problem - but are also moist and packed with flavor. The frosting is also light, but sweet and creamy and not airy. In addition, I appreciated the fun frosting colors and sprinkles. Behold the cupcake bounty below, with details from top left to bottom right:

• Black & White (chocolate cake with vanilla buttercream) - the chocolate cake was simply but richly flavored, and so moist! I think the bakery managed to find the perfect cocoa-powder-to-oil ratio. The vanilla buttercream frosting was light and fun, though I am still on the fence as to whose frosting I prefer (this bakery's or Sweet's). Of course, I greatly appreciated the cheerful pink coloring.
• Lemon Yummy (lemon cake with lemon buttercream) - this is the best lemon baked item I have ever purchased. The cake itself was citrusy and sweet - and almost creamy, as if it were a lemon tart that begrudgingly assented to being a cupcake. The frosting, of course, was pure heaven, and I am now motivated to make my own (confectioner's sugar, lemon juice, butter, and heavy cream, perhaps?).
• Ooey Gooey (chocolate cake with chocolate almond buttercream) - of course, the cake itself was divine. The frosting's almond flavor was a bit overpowering, most likely created via the more aromatic, and hence initially more flavorful, almond extract. Despite my antipathy towards nuts in baked goods, I think I would have preferred the actual-nut method - the extract permeated the chocolate, while discrete nuts would have added textural variety and isolated bits of flavor.
• Sunshine (yellow cake with vanilla buttercream) - this cupcake was pure vanilla excellence. If a bakery can do this simplest of cupcakes well, no wonder everything else is so good!
  

Sugar Sweet Sunshine will get my regular business on future New York trips. Next time, I am eager to try their Spiced Pumpkin cupcake with cream cheese frosting!

That evening, we traveled to Brooklyn's Cobble Hill neighborhood to satisfy a long-time dessert desire. My roommate, a former Brooklynite, recommended The Chocolate Room when she first learned of my obsession, and while I wish I had made it there sooner, it was still worth the wait. Here, you can see the Brownie Sundae and Chocolate Pudding.

I was impressed with the majority of the sundae. The homemade brownie was moist and dark; the fudge sauce was bittersweet, which gets us to two distinct chocolate flavors in one dessert; the whipped cream was oh-so-light and sweet; the cherry on top had been rolled in chocolate shavings. The ice cream flavor was of your own choosing, and I went with mint chocolate chip, hoping for a tasty yet traditional take on that classic flavor. I was slightly disappointed. The chips were actually very thick shavings of delicious milk chocolate (three distinct chocolate flavors in one dessert, mmm), but the mint flavor itself was slightly too fresh and leafy. It did not go well with the bittersweet chocolate, and left an almost sour taste in my mouth. The chocolate pudding, however, was just what a chocolate puddding should be, with perhaps an extra kick of robust chocolate flavor. Other things in the Chocolate Room's favor: they serve you a small scoop of Vahlrona chocolate sorbet upon sitting down, and offer a variety of unique chocolate items (both Chocolate-Room-specific and other brands) for purchase at their bar in the front of the restaurant. What could have made our experience better? Maybe a chocolate martini to mask that mint taste!