Wednesday, November 18, 2009

An Ode to Athan's

Athan’s Bakery was originally a curiosity to be observed from the windows of the C line while traveling downtown from college. Since then, I have realized its utility as a perfect way to complement meals eaten (or beverages purchased) in Brookline’s Washington Square. Regardless of what type of dessert you want, and what quantity, Athan’s has something that will make you happy. Cakes, mousses, butter cookies, gelato, chocolates, candies, Greek pastries, and cream desserts are all there, along with café beverages to wash them down. I can’t help but rave about the sweet treats I have had there.


Let's start with the Cookie Crème confection (above left). Light, airy barely-chocolate cake alternates with smooth, deeply-flavored, and well-whipped chocolate mousse to create a pleasing dessert of various chocolate textures. The dessert is shot through with miniature chocolate chips and small chunks of chewy cookie dough; both of these exist in a higher density at the center. Dark chocolate ganache frosting drizzled with a thinner chocolate sauce enrobes the cake and mousse layers, and the whole thing is topped with a dollop of vanilla cream and a chocolate wafer. With so many chocolates, how can this dessert not deliver? I was very pleased with its rich flavors and deceptive lightness. The cheesecake, to the right of the Cookie Crème, is another example of a heavy cake made light and bearable. The packed graham cracker crust is covered in a layer of strawberry cream, which in turn is topped with sweet, whipped meringue cheesecake. This airy, creamy confection was a true delight, especially after the filling cheeses I had eaten with my dinner before! I cannot advocate enough for a bakery that creates lighter yet equally flavorful versions of traditionally-filling desserts.

Athan’s chocolates, on the other hand, are black holes that fit in your hand – but one would expect that from fine truffles. The chocolates’ best advantages are their size and truffle fillings. These confections are larger than the average piece of chocolate, but smaller than a candy bar, brownie or cookie. In other words, if you want something sweet after a filling meal, and don’t want to burst but still feel like you had a legitimate dessert, these are the way to go. Also, the flavors! I have seen Nutella, fig, mint, amaretto, marzipan, caramel, and ganache fillings in these truffles. The Nutella filling was delightful, and I have a mint truffle awaiting me at home. I’m sure it will be delicious…just like I’m sure I will be back for more. I may not be in college anymore, but the C line is still worth traveling for these treasures!

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