Peppermint Bark Cookies - Or, An E for Effort

I've been searching for an innovative Christmas cookie recipe that I can bake and bring home for the holidays. Bon Appetit's peppermint bark cookie recipe immediately grabbed my attention, since it combines two favorite treats - shortbread and peppermint bark - in one bite! So, I tested the recipe this weekend. My eagerness for the recipe's end result caused me to overlook the unusual amount of effort required to get there, which was hinted at in the recipe but proved to be even greater in execution. The recipe is below, along with my commentary in italics.

• Nonstick vegetable oil spray
• 2 C all-purpose flour
• 1/4 t salt
• 1 C (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1 C sugar
• 1 t vanilla extract
• 1 large egg yolk
• 6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped (This is about 3/4 C, but I put 1 C in and still could have used more.)
• 1/2 C finely chopped red-and-white-striped hard peppermint candies or candy canes
• 2 ounces high-quality white chocolate

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray 13x9x2-inch metal baking pan with nonstick spray. Line bottom of pan with long strip of 9-inch-wide parchment paper, leaving overhang on both short sides of pan.
2. Whisk flour and salt in medium bowl.
3. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until creamy, about 2 minutes. Gradually beat in sugar. Continue beating until mixture is light and fluffy, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl, about 3 minutes. Beat in vanilla, then egg yolk. Gradually add flour mixture, beating on low speed just to blend. I beat well beyond a "just blended" state in an effort to achieve a dough-like consistency - no such luck.
4. Drop dough by tablespoonfuls into prepared baking pan, spacing evenly. Using moistened fingertips, press dough to form even layer over bottom of pan. Pierce dough all over with fork. The dough was so crumbly, I didn't think it would form into a continuous layer. The moistened fingers, plus a few minutes of pressing, made all the difference. I've made shortbreads before, but none have been this resistant to forming proper dough or easily spreading throughout a pan.
5. Bake cookie base until light golden brown and slightly puffed and edges begin to come away from sides of pan, about 30 minutes. Place pan on rack when done.
6. Immediately sprinkle bittersweet chocolate over cookie base. Let stand until chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Using small offset spatula, spread bittersweet chocolate over top of cookie in thin even layer. Immediately sprinkle chopped peppermint candies over. My semisweet chocolate chips took over 3 minutes to cool enough for spreading. The melted chocolate was easy enough to spread, but of course I did not immediately reach an even chocolate distribution. I hammered candy canes to get peppermint shards, but the canes resisted the force well and left me with peppermint powder and larger-than desired candy chunks. I ended up taking a sharp knife to the bag of candy, which was slightly more effective at creating small pieces than the hammer. Still, I wish the pieces were consistently smaller.
7. Stir white chocolate in medium metal bowl set over saucepan of simmering water until melted and smooth. Remove from over water. Using fork, drizzle white chocolate all over cookies. Chill until white chocolate is set, about 30 minutes. I enjoyed using the double-boiler method to melt the white chocolate, and I even added some candy cane powder to the chocolate for additional color and flavor, However, the chocolate did not drizzle particularly well. Also, it took the melted chocolates more than the recipe's suggested half hour to cool. The cookies were ready for removal from the pan approximately 2 hours after I applied the white chocolate.
8. Using paper overhang as aid, lift cookie from pan and transfer to work surface. Using large knife, cut cookie into pieces. The parchment paper was a great idea - cookie removal was a breeze. I cut 28 total cookies.
   
   

I had never put so much time and effort into making cookies! Fortunately, the results were pleasing. The shortbread was buttery and surprisingly chewy for such a thin cookie - the immediate application of chocolate on top must have kept a lot of moisture in! The semisweet chocolate layer was smooth and tasty, though it did not consistently stick to the shortbread. The candy pieces were also surprisingly chewy, so what initially concerned me about their size was a non-issue upon eating. Of course, the mint-and-chocolate combination was a winner. Lastly, the white chocolate drizzle with hints of peppermint powder was delicious! Ghirardelli chocolate is so sweet and smooth, and the hint of peppermint taste and cool crunch was the perfect finishing touch on this multifaceted delight.
I would make these cookies again, but I hope an easier yet equally delicious recipe will come my way!

Not Your Average Thanksgiving Dessert

My family challenged me to make a “lighter” Thanksgiving dessert. This was a reasonable request – Thanksgiving dinner is a huge affair, and even I have trouble coaxing the “dessert stomach” open after heaps of delicious turkey and plentiful, delectable sides. So, it was out with the pumpkin pie, and in with a flavorful, holiday-appropriate, and deceptively light treat from Martha Stewart’s Great Food Fast cookbook. Here’s how to make the Cranberry Upside Down Cake:

• 8 T unsalted butter
• 1 C sugar
• 1/2 t ground cinnamon
• 1/4 t ground allspice
• 1 3/4 C cranberries
• 1 large egg
• 1 t vanilla extract
• 1 1/4 C all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 t baking powder
• 1/4 t salt
• 1/2 C milk
• Sweetened whipped cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Rub the bottom and sides of an 8" round cake pan with 2 T of the butter. (Note: this degree of buttering is not necessary, but give the pan a better-than-normal coat.)
2. In a small bowl, whisk together 1/2 C of the sugar with the cinnamon and allspice. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan, and arrange the cranberries in a single layer on top.

3. Cream the remaining 6 T butter and 1/2 C sugar until they are light and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla; beat until well combined.
4. In another bowl, whick the flour, baking powder, and salt together.
5. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in three batches, alternating with the milk, until well combined.
6. Spoon the batter over the cranberries in the pan, and smooth the top. Place the pan on a baking sheet, and bake it until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean (30-35 minutes). Then, let it cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. When it is time to remove the cake from the pan, run a knife around the edge of the cake and invert it onto the platter.

There was not enough bursting of cranberries to significantly soak the cake with juice – so, this is more of a tea cake with a well-secured cranberry-sugar topping than an upside down cake proper. You can see from the post’s first image that the recipe’s recommended amount of berries did not completely cover the pan. I wonder if adding additional cranberry coverage would improve the juiciness - I'll test that out when I bake this next. The topping is a refreshing combination of sweet and tart, with the allspice providing a hint of bite that initially catches you off guard. The caramelized sugar is somewhat crunchy, and that plus the warm, soft berries is a textural treat. The cake below has a pleasant buttery vanilla flavor, and its texture is somehow creamy and light. Whipped cream is not necessary, but it doesn't hurt to add another light, sweet flavor (and texture!) to the dessert.

It goes without saying that I was able to make room for this after the holiday meal!

How About Them Apples!

Oh, the fun of baking with apples! I must share two treats made with this fall’s Londonderry Cortland harvest.

My classic apple dessert is apple crisp. It’s hard to find a dessert that’s easier to make than this. Cut four peeled, cored apples into thin slices; array the slices within a greased 9x9 square baking dish; cover in a crumble topping made of ½ cup (each) oats, flour, and brown sugar, with cinnamon to taste (oh, a tablespoon?) and enough butter to make coarse crumbs when blended with the other crumble ingredients (usually 1 stick). Bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees, let cool, and enjoy! Doesn’t it look tasty?

Once the obligatory crisp was baked and consumed, it was time to branch into new dessert territory. I made my first apple pie this fall, and the results were promising enough that I look forward to making more. I wanted something slightly different than the standard apple pie, so I turned to Ina Garten of Barefoot Contessa for inspiration. This citrusy apple pie recipe yielded an unusual dessert that grew on me with each bite. The lemon and orange zest and juice added so much citrus that the filling resembled an apple chutney more than simple spiced apples. Fortunately, scoops of vanilla ice cream tamed the tang when needed. Apart from the citrus, the pie filling was conventional - flour, sugar, and warm, cozy spices. You can see the pie in its various stages of progress below. To start, note the heap of fruit! This was only 5 apples; though the recipe called for 8, I didn't want to deal with an even taller mountain. Then, it was difficult to secure the top crust over the mound, but we succeeded and even brushed it with the recipe's sugary egg wash for extra cripsness and sweetness. Next, the steaming finished product is removed from the oven, juices dribbling. Lastly, we have a slice of pie with ice cream at the ready.




And, I must share a postscript. I revisited this cake for 2009's Thanksgiving breakfast, but added one recipe component I had previously ignored: a brown sugar sauce for drizzling and dipping. The result was like a thin caramel, which I poured over the warm cake as soon as the cake came out of the oven. This added delicious, sweet, chewy moisture to the cake, and the caramel taste went really well with the spiced apples. The glaze recipe made a lot of extra sauce, which I saved and poured over individual slices at breakfast time. I also dipped the occasional piece of chocolate in the pseudo-caramel, which was a most welcome treat! I might make the glaze again, cool it, and roll balls of it in melted chocolate in an attempt at caramel truffles.

An Ode to Athan's

Athan’s Bakery was originally a curiosity to be observed from the windows of the C line while traveling downtown from college. Since then, I have realized its utility as a perfect way to complement meals eaten (or beverages purchased) in Brookline’s Washington Square. Regardless of what type of dessert you want, and what quantity, Athan’s has something that will make you happy. Cakes, mousses, butter cookies, gelato, chocolates, candies, Greek pastries, and cream desserts are all there, along with café beverages to wash them down. I can’t help but rave about the sweet treats I have had there.

Let's start with the Cookie Crème confection (above left). Light, airy barely-chocolate cake alternates with smooth, deeply-flavored, and well-whipped chocolate mousse to create a pleasing dessert of various chocolate textures. The dessert is shot through with miniature chocolate chips and small chunks of chewy cookie dough; both of these exist in a higher density at the center. Dark chocolate ganache frosting drizzled with a thinner chocolate sauce enrobes the cake and mousse layers, and the whole thing is topped with a dollop of vanilla cream and a chocolate wafer. With so many chocolates, how can this dessert not deliver? I was very pleased with its rich flavors and deceptive lightness. The cheesecake, to the right of the Cookie Crème, is another example of a heavy cake made light and bearable. The packed graham cracker crust is covered in a layer of strawberry cream, which in turn is topped with sweet, whipped meringue cheesecake. This airy, creamy confection was a true delight, especially after the filling cheeses I had eaten with my dinner before! I cannot advocate enough for a bakery that creates lighter yet equally flavorful versions of traditionally-filling desserts.

Athan’s chocolates, on the other hand, are black holes that fit in your hand – but one would expect that from fine truffles. The chocolates’ best advantages are their size and truffle fillings. These confections are larger than the average piece of chocolate, but smaller than a candy bar, brownie or cookie. In other words, if you want something sweet after a filling meal, and don’t want to burst but still feel like you had a legitimate dessert, these are the way to go. Also, the flavors! I have seen Nutella, fig, mint, amaretto, marzipan, caramel, and ganache fillings in these truffles. The Nutella filling was delightful, and I have a mint truffle awaiting me at home. I’m sure it will be delicious…just like I’m sure I will be back for more. I may not be in college anymore, but the C line is still worth traveling for these treasures!

California Dessertin': Baked Beauties

This baked-good entry is entirely devoted to Kara's Cupcakes...6 particular cupcakes, to be exact. If you recall the multitude of cupcake entries written thus far in this blog, you can easily imagine my glee at stumbling upon a cupcakery in Ghirardelli Square that rivals my favorite East Coast cupcake haunts! We snacked on Kara's excellent baked treats twice in San Francisco:

• Fleur de Sel- a moist chocolate cupcake was filled with soft, sweet caramel and topped in thick, dark, creamy chocolate ganache. The ganache, in turn, was dusted with crystals of fleur de sel. I really enjoyed the bits of salt in an otherwise smooth and silkily sweet cupcake. One of the best cupcakes I have ever had!
  
• Vanilla Chocolate - a vanilla cupcake was topped with sugary chocolate buttercream frosting. This simple treat was tasty, but could have used some additional moisture.
• Meyer Lemony Lemon - a dense, somewhat dry vanilla cupcake was injected with tart lemon filling. The frosting was a smooth, barely-lemon vanilla buttercream whose potential citrusy tartness was negated by its creaminess. Fortunately the tart filling more than made up for the lack of lemon flavor elsewhere in the dessert.
  
• Passion Fruit - the same vanilla cupcake had intensely sweet...yet tart...passion fruit filling within, and vanilla buttercream frosting on top. The filling provided the moisture necessary for the cake, and the passion fruit flavor's strength stood out against the cake and frosting's comparatively mild vanilla.

Four cupcakes, however, apparently were not enough! We were surprised to see a second Kara's outpost a few days later in downtown Napa.

• Raspberry Dazzle - the same moist chocolate cake used in the Fleur de Sel cupcake was filled with sweet raspberry preserves and topped with smooth raspberry buttercream frosting. Here, the frosting's creaminess worked well with its fruit flavor, as berries are more easily made sweet than citrus fruits. This cupcake dazzled me, for sure.
  
• Banana Caramel - a banana cupcake, whose texture walked the line between banana bread and cake proper, was filled with sweet caramel and topped with cream cheese frosting. The frosting was reminiscent of carrot cake topping, but silkier; the caramel was smooth against the comparative roughness of the cake. These three flavors went unexpectly well together, and made this cupcake the most (pleasantly) surprising.

Overall, Kara's cakes were better than the average Boston cup cake, with frosting to rival Sweet's. If you travel to the San Francisco area and need a delightful dessert to go, make a stop - or two - or even three! - at Kara's.

California Dessertin': Feeling Fruity

Peach Cobbler at The Monk's Kettle

This dessert ended my favorite meal of the vacation, and one of my favorite meals of the year. The Monk's Kettle features Belgian-style beers and fresh, quality interpretations of comfort classics. Bostonians, imagine a smaller, Californified Publick House. I wasn't sure if their desserts could reach the same degree of excellence as my pot pie of the day, but our dessert choice definitely did. The cobbler was served in a small crock fresh out of the oven; the juices dribbling out of the crock may have been bubbling! The peach slices within the cobbler were a variety of thicknesses and the perfect degree of ripeness. Some sugar was mixed in, clearly, but not enough to mask that fresh peach tartness or make the dessert overly syrupy. The crumble topping was thick and oaty with a hint of cinnamon. It may have walked the line between savory and sweet, which I historically consider perfect for peaches. The crumbly dough was then topped with vanilla bean ice cream and garnished with mint. The ice cream melted rather quickly given the oven freshness of the dessert - so, each bite was a delightful combination of tart peaches, buttery cinnamon crumble, and cool vanilla. Does it get better than this?

California Dessertin': Chocolate, (Not So) Plain and Simple

I will not waste your time with excuses for why I haven’t updated since…July? Consider this notification that I am alive and well, and have been consuming desserts at just as alarming a rate as when I posted more regularly.

A week-long October vacation to San Francisco and Napa Valley yielded plenty of dessert-sampling opportunities, organized into Chocolate, Fruit, and Baked Item posts for your reading pleasure!

• Ghirardelli Peanut Butter Squares – Ghirardelli chocolate is made in San Francisco, and while their factory is not open to the public, they still provide a treat for visitors in the form of an extensive gift shop and chocolate restaurant at Ghirardelli Square. Shoppers receive a complimentary chocolate square upon entering the store, so we were able to sample their recently-released peanut butter squares. The milk chocolate was smooth and creamy, as always. The peanut butter was thicker than the average creamy peanut butter, without much salt or buttery flavor. I would have preferred a tad more salt, as few desserts are as joyous as those that combine salty and sweet tastes. Some buttery smoothness would have been welcome as well, rather than bland solidity enrobed in tastier chocolate. I’m sure Ghirardelli will refine their recipe over time – after all, I can find no fault with their long-tenured mint and caramel squares.


• Ghirardelli World Famous Hot Fudge Sundae – The chocolate restaurant had oh so many ice cream delights to choose from, but in the interest of being as objective as possible we ordered the classic Ghirardelli sundae. The dessert was a massive quantity of French vanilla ice cream drizzled in chocolate sauce made from ground and melted Ghirardelli candies. The chocolate-to-ice-cream ratio was among the best I’ve seen, which you would expect from a chocolatier! The milk chocolate sauce had a creamy taste and was mostly smooth, with a hint of cocoa-y graininess that may be a result of its freshness. Whipped cream and a maraschino cherry topped off the sundae.


• Tcho Chocolate – In wandering the Embarcadero area, full of old piers and warehouses converted to trendier ends, we stumbled upon Tcho’s chocolate factory and shop. Instead of marketing their chocolates by percent cacao, or bean origin, or added flavor, Tcho makes chocolate from beans with unique flavor profiles. So, a bar of Citrus chocolate didn’t have lemon extract added to the melt – instead, the source beans are just naturally tart and tangy, and those properties are drawn out in the chocolate-making process. The Citrus was my favorite, though Fruity was an effective complement to nuts and dried fruit (ha). I returned to Boston with a Citrus bar, some Fruity-covered cashews, and Chocolatey organic baking chocolate! A side note: coffee drinks featuring Tchocolate are extraordinary…and pack a lot of caffeine. We enjoyed the Tcho Shot (equal parts espresso and chocolate) and Tchocha (replace “Tch” with “M”).



• Milat Chocolate Port Sauce – The Milat winery in Napa Valley is a small, family-operated business that partners with a Napa chocolatier to make this dessert. A basic chocolate sauce is fortified with Milat’s port-style wine. The excellence of this sauce owes more to the sweet port than the barely-dark chocolate; the black cherry, assorted berry, and brandy flavors really assert themselves. This would be a good sauce for drizzling over vanilla ice cream, berries, or flaky pastries. I wonder which we’ll do!

Mulligan's Farms

It is finally time for Mulligan’s, the storied ice cream stand of my New Hampshire days, to get the blog mention it deserves. Well, I must clarify a few things first: while I might live in the Boston area currently, I still frequent Mulligan’s whenever I head back to Londonderry to visit my family. So, the NH days still exist, in a manner of speaking. Secondly, this purveyor of desserts is not even in NH – it’s in Tyngsboro, MA, a town bordering NH, which is about 25 minutes from where I grew up. Lastly, my family and I are the only ones who know this place as Mulligan’s. Any other person would call the stand Sullivan Farms Homemade Ice Cream. Why do we call it Mulligan’s, you ask? Well, that doesn’t have any impact on the quality of the ice cream made there…and believe me, it is delicious.

The actual ice cream used at Mulligan’s is thick and creamy, but not creamy to the point of tasting fatty. The flavors are enjoyable – chocolate is light and milky, almost like Swiss chocolate; French vanilla is creamy with the palest yellow color; strawberry strikes the perfect balance between fruit and milk tastes; mint is strong yet sweet, and of course a lovely light green. With these ice creams as bases, Mulligan’s uses the typical ice cream mix-ins to put the best possible spin on the usual flavor combinations. Any chip variety is packed full of chips of varying sizes and textures. Candy ice creams are filled with candy pieces. Cookie flavors contain ground-up cookie powder as well as huge cookie chunks. Swirl ice creams contain enough of the swirled item – fudge, caramel, etc – to be considered a frozen sundae. Two of my favorite inspired flavors are:

• Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup –Swiss chocolate ice cream swirled with peanut butter, and peanut butter cup chunks as well as full cups mixed in
• Mopman’s Grasshopper Pie – a Julie flavor if there ever was one, this ice cream has pretty much all I would want in a dessert, in one scoop: mint ice cream with chocolate chips, Oreo cookies (both crumbs and pieces / entire cookies), and thick, luxurious fudge swirls

Essentially, I can’t think of a better place to fulfill one’s need for traditional, homestyle ice cream. If you’re in the mood for something other than a scoop or two, their sundaes are also delicious, with plenty of rich homemade fudge drizzled over mounds of ice cream. The deal is made even sweeter when you consider the value for your money – a “kiddie” at Mulligan’s is the equivalent of a generous medium, or skimpy large, at any Boston-area creamery; and yes, that’s the smallest size they offer.

So, if you’re in southern New Hampshire for any reason, or taking Route 3 north to a vacation in the Lakes Region or White Mountains, or are simply in the mood for a dessert-themed escape from urban Massachusetts, you owe it to yourself to stop at Mulligan’s. Bring me back a tub of Mopman’s – yes, they will pack mass quantities to go!

Baking at the Brewery

This most recent summer weekend came to a delicious close in Portsmouth, NH. After spending the day sunning ourselves at local beaches, we decided that few things could be better than eating pub food and drinking local beer - so, I recommended the Portsmouth Brewery's restaurant, long a family favorite for its hearty sandwiches and relaxed, airy dining space. Even I was pleasantly surprised with the excellence of the establishment's appetizers and dinners - the menu has grown more varied, and the food's quality has increased, over the years - as well as the desserts! The following desserts found their way to our table.

• Chocolate Stout Cake - this monstrous two-layer cake was made with the brewery's own "Black Cat" stout, frosted with milk chocolate icing, and drizzled in chocolate sauce. A hearty dollop of freshly-whipped cream accompanied the dessert, and its purpose became apparent after the first bite. The cake was extremely dense thanks to the stout, and any cool attempt (in cream form) at lightening it was welcomed. Even glasses of beer and water couldn't help the entire cake down. The beer taste was noticeable, but not too distracting. Overall, I found the cake to be too dense, and slightly too dry and bitter - probably nothing that a little extra oil in the recipe couldn't fix!
• Fruit Cobbler - imagine a large ramekin filled with mixed fruit (strawberries, blueberries and raspberries), topped with an inch-thick layer of hearty crumble topping and a finishing dollop of vanilla cream. Such was the glory that I ordered and enjoyed. The berries were fresh, and the crumble topping was well-spiced, with plenty of oaty chunks to crunch. My only objection was to the walnuts strewn throughout the topping. Otherwise, consider this repeat-order-worthy and an inspiration to my own kitchen.
• Vanilla Saffron Pound Cake - this unusual offering was from the "Brewer's Table No. 22" menu, a rotating list of specials with custom beer pairings. The pound cake had a pleasant vanilla flavor with only a hint (fortunately) of saffron, and the clear vanilla glaze drizzled over the confection had the faintest hint of lemon. A cassis-moscado sorbet accompanied the cake, and I thoroughly enjoyed this unconventional medium for black currant flavor.

Impressive for a local pub, eh? We were all stuffed after dining so heartily, so we had no room for Annabelle's Ice Cream, another Portsmouth food favorite. Maybe next time?

Cookies, Cupcakes, or Muffins?

My latest baking adventure proved to be one of the most surprising, and most delicious, adventures yet! I departed from my custom of only baking pumpkin items in fall and winter, and tried a recipe from this book for pumpkin butterscotch cookies. I substituted milk chocolate chips for butterscotch ones (apparently butterscotch chips are too processed for Whole Foods) and was blown away by the results. Here is the recipe:

• 2 C unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1/2 t salt
• 1 t ground cinnamon (per family baking tradition, I slightly-more-than-doubled this)
• 2 large eggs
• 1 C sugar
• 1/2 C canola or corn oil
• 1 C canned pumpkin
• 1 t vanilla extract
• 1 C butterscotch chips (or milk chocolate chips...I definitely put in more than 1 cup)

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and butter the paper.
2. Stir the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon together in a medium bowl and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the eggs and sugar until smooth and lightened in color, about 1 minute. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl as needed during mixing. On low speed, mix in the oil, pumpkin, and vanilla until blended. Mix in the flour mixture to incorporate it. Mix in the chips.
4. Using a 1/4 C measuring cup, scoop out mounds of dough onto the buttered parchment paper, and smooth them over. This method makes approximately 16 cookies.
5. Bake the cookies one sheet at a time until the tops feel firm and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out dry, about 15 minutes. Cool them on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, and then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
6. Dust the cooled cookies lightly with powdered sugar. The cookies can be stored in a tightly covered container at room temperature for up to 4 days.

The dough was so easy to make, and as you may recall from previous entries I always appreciate the use of oil in place of more fattening / less flavor-friendly dairy ingredients! I was initially apprehensive of the 1/4 C of batter per cookie, but the end result allayed all concerns. These baked items are less like cookies, and more like the plump tops of large cupcakes or muffins. They are unusually moist and pumpkin-y, and the extra cinnamon really complemented the rich pumpkin flavor. The edges of the chocolate chips got slightly crispy as they baked in the oily batter environment, but the chips' interiors stayed rich, creamy, and melted *just* enough. Plus, the crispy crunch isn't a bad thing in the context of the extremely soft, smooth cookie. They taste delicious right out of the oven but also keep extremely well, retaining all moisture several days after baking. While they taste phenomenal as is, one particularly fun way to enjoy them is to frost them in warm chocolate icing - it really is like having a pumpkin-chocolate cupcake! I have never experienced a pumpkin-chocolate combination that worked as well as these, or any baked good that stayed so moist over time.

With the success of my chocolate improvisation in mind, I hope to repeat this recipe as it was originally intended, with butterscotch chips. White chocolate chips, cranberries, or apple chunks may also be worthwhile...

Brooklyn and the Lower East Side

May's trip to New York City, plus recommendations from current and former residents, inspired a new round of dessert tasting when I was back in town in mid-June.

When impromptu city wandering led us to the Lower East Side, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit Sugar Sweet Sunshine, baker of delectable cupcakes. These cupcakes are infinitely superior to Magnolia's (though, alas, I did not see a single instance of purple frosting) in both cake and frosting. The cakes themselves are light - you can eat two cupcakes after a large meal, no problem - but are also moist and packed with flavor. The frosting is also light, but sweet and creamy and not airy. In addition, I appreciated the fun frosting colors and sprinkles. Behold the cupcake bounty below, with details from top left to bottom right:

• Black & White (chocolate cake with vanilla buttercream) - the chocolate cake was simply but richly flavored, and so moist! I think the bakery managed to find the perfect cocoa-powder-to-oil ratio. The vanilla buttercream frosting was light and fun, though I am still on the fence as to whose frosting I prefer (this bakery's or Sweet's). Of course, I greatly appreciated the cheerful pink coloring.
• Lemon Yummy (lemon cake with lemon buttercream) - this is the best lemon baked item I have ever purchased. The cake itself was citrusy and sweet - and almost creamy, as if it were a lemon tart that begrudgingly assented to being a cupcake. The frosting, of course, was pure heaven, and I am now motivated to make my own (confectioner's sugar, lemon juice, butter, and heavy cream, perhaps?).
• Ooey Gooey (chocolate cake with chocolate almond buttercream) - of course, the cake itself was divine. The frosting's almond flavor was a bit overpowering, most likely created via the more aromatic, and hence initially more flavorful, almond extract. Despite my antipathy towards nuts in baked goods, I think I would have preferred the actual-nut method - the extract permeated the chocolate, while discrete nuts would have added textural variety and isolated bits of flavor.
• Sunshine (yellow cake with vanilla buttercream) - this cupcake was pure vanilla excellence. If a bakery can do this simplest of cupcakes well, no wonder everything else is so good!
  

Sugar Sweet Sunshine will get my regular business on future New York trips. Next time, I am eager to try their Spiced Pumpkin cupcake with cream cheese frosting!

That evening, we traveled to Brooklyn's Cobble Hill neighborhood to satisfy a long-time dessert desire. My roommate, a former Brooklynite, recommended The Chocolate Room when she first learned of my obsession, and while I wish I had made it there sooner, it was still worth the wait. Here, you can see the Brownie Sundae and Chocolate Pudding.

I was impressed with the majority of the sundae. The homemade brownie was moist and dark; the fudge sauce was bittersweet, which gets us to two distinct chocolate flavors in one dessert; the whipped cream was oh-so-light and sweet; the cherry on top had been rolled in chocolate shavings. The ice cream flavor was of your own choosing, and I went with mint chocolate chip, hoping for a tasty yet traditional take on that classic flavor. I was slightly disappointed. The chips were actually very thick shavings of delicious milk chocolate (three distinct chocolate flavors in one dessert, mmm), but the mint flavor itself was slightly too fresh and leafy. It did not go well with the bittersweet chocolate, and left an almost sour taste in my mouth. The chocolate pudding, however, was just what a chocolate puddding should be, with perhaps an extra kick of robust chocolate flavor. Other things in the Chocolate Room's favor: they serve you a small scoop of Vahlrona chocolate sorbet upon sitting down, and offer a variety of unique chocolate items (both Chocolate-Room-specific and other brands) for purchase at their bar in the front of the restaurant. What could have made our experience better? Maybe a chocolate martini to mask that mint taste!

Not Gingerly with Ginger

I recently made a ginger cake for Greg's birthday - or, more accurately, a double ginger cake. This baking adventure represented somewhat of a departure from bakings past, as your blogger does not share the cake recipient's enthusiasm for ginger. In fact, it's probably one of my least favorite sweet spices. However, Bon Appetit came through (again) with an innovative recipe that maximizes the ginger flavor for ginger lovers, all within the framework of a delicious sour cream cake coated in raw sugar crystals that can be appreciated by any lover of baked goods. The intense ginger flavor comes from two sources - ground ginger, which I use regularly in spice cakes and whose taste I find pleasant in that context, and chopped crystallized ginger, which is infinitely stronger, gooey, and sticky. The result was well-received! Here is the recipe, in case you have a ginger lover to please:

• Softened butter (for brushing pan)
• 1/2 C raw (turbinado) sugar
• 2 1/4 C all purpose flour
• 4 t ground ginger
• 2 t baking powder
• 1/2 t salt
• 1 C (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 2 C sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 t vanilla extract
• 1 C sour cream
• 1 C chopped crystallized ginger

1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Brush softened butter generously all over inside of 12 C Bundt pan. Sprinkle raw sugar over butter in pan, tilting pan to coat completely.
2. Whisk flour, ground ginger, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl.
3. Using electric mixer, beat 1 C butter in large bowl until smooth. Add 2 C sugar; beat on medium-high speed until blended, about 2 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in 1 egg yolk and vanilla, stopping to scrape down bowl as needed.
4. Add flour mixture in 3 additions alternately with sour cream in 2 additions, beating on low speed just until blended after each addition. Mix in crystallized ginger. Spread batter in pan, being careful not to dislodge raw sugar.
5. Bake cake until top is light brown and tester inserted near center comes out with a few small crumbs attached, about 55 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool in pan 15 minutes. Gently tap bottom edge of pan on work surface while rotating pan until cake loosens. Place rack atop pan and invert cake onto rack; remove pan. Cool completely.

The cake mixes and bakes easily. Once you are ready to eat it, it tastes fine at room temperature, but a warmed slice will release its aroma oh so nicely. The sour cream batter provides a hint of sweet tang, which goes well with the spicy sweetness of the ginger. A delicious counterpoint to both tang and spice is the turbinado sugar crust baked over the exterior of the cake. Its sweet crunch really made the cake! I rarely rave about baked-item crusts, but this cake's edges are worth a rave and more. In fact, I think I will try crusting future Bundt baked items (my aunt's famous double-chocolate cake, perhaps?) in the sugar. One technical recommendation: be very precise about dollopping batter into the Bundt. Try to not have to scrape the batter around the pan to get an even distribution, as this will dislodge the sugar.

In other ginger news, I have a handful or two of crystallized ginger still left over from this baking...anyone want?

Red, White, and You

Sweet Cupcakes, already an inspiration for a past entry, recently released their summer cupcake lineup. One variety in particular stood out among the fruit-inspired confections: the “Red, White, and You” cupcake. Sweet describes this as “the vanilla bean Sweet [i.e., standard tasty offering] cake filled with Berry Bash jam and topped with homemade vanilla buttercream.” Behold the adorable little cupcakes, just released from their travel box.

And here, you can see them partially eaten through.

This cupcake is exceptional for several reasons. Firstly, the vanilla cake is dense, well-flavored, and somewhat crumbly. I welcome the confident vanilla, as the flavor is rarely employed beyond the token teaspoon in any given recipe. I also favor a slightly crumbly cake, as this suggests sugar and/or butter are not overused! Secondly, the berry jam is a pleasant mash of berries – I could taste blueberries and raspberries – and an enjoyable burst of color at the center of an otherwise-pale dessert. Lastly, the two tiers of frosting are, as with all Sweet frostings, delicious! I could eat just the frosting and forgo the cupcake if needed. Vanilla bean specks in the creamy white buttercream reinforce the vanilla theme. I particularly appreciate the first dollop being crusted in colored sugar – not only is it visually pleasing, but it provides an unexpected and fun textural change in a glob of gooey goodness. It sealed the deal, so to say, on this bold pronouncement: this is the best Sweet cupcake yet!

If Sweet Entry No. 1 did not convince you to get a cupcake, I hope this Entry No. 2 will!

So Much Goes to New York

Your blogger spent a recent weekend in New York City, and must share two noteworthy dessert instances with you!

To start, imagine my glee while wandering near Union Square on a Thursday evening, and stumbling upon a truck dispensing a variety of free desserts! Yes, that's right - the Dessert Truck had just finished taping an episode for the Food Network, and they had a truck's worth (ha) of desserts left over that staff were giving to passersby. It didn't matter that we were on our way to dinner - we nabbed brownies, a chocolate cupcake, cheesecake, and a waffle with vanilla creme fraiche. The waffle, creme, and cupcake were tasty, but average; the other two desserts were definitely superior and memorable. The brownie was fudgy and melted in my mouth, and packed a lot of chocolate flavor in a small square; the cheesecake was smooth, light, creamy, and moist. We had so much dessert...for so little! New Yorkers and visitors to the city, check the Dessert Truck's website for upcoming locations. Enjoy the desserterie-on-wheels concept as long as you can! (Boston, please start something similar?)

The other dessert experience was much more conventional. Magnolia Bakery, on Bleecker Street in the West Village, earned some level of popular awareness thanks to SNL's Lazy Sunday skit and a Sex and the City episode. The merits of snacks for the Chronicles of Narnia aside, the bakery's biggest draw, in my opinion, is their exceptional frosting. This sweet buttercream icing comes in a range of pastel colors (standard buttercream flavor) and a rich chocolatey brown (chocolate).

Ever loyal to my favorite color, my preferred Magnolia cupcake is a chocolate cake with purple buttercream frosting - but, I had to settle on pink frosting during this most recent visit when they ran out of purple. Much like the Dessert Truck cupcake, the cake itself is average if not slightly disappointing; however, the quality of the frosting more than makes up for any batter shortcomings. The best way to eat such a cupcake is to eat away at the base of the cake, leaving a thin layer for consumption with a mouthful of frosting.

The vanilla cupcake with yellow frosting was similarly average, but a hint of lemon in the batter proved to be a pleasant surprise.

I would go to Magnolia again to enjoy the frosting, but several native New Yorkers have recommended both the cake and frosting available at Sugar Sweet Bakery. Next time...

What Sweet Cupcakes!

There is a new cupcake shop in Cambridge! Sweet Cupcakes, whose first location is on Mass Ave by the Comm Ave intersection, now has a second location across the street from Cardullo's in the heart of Harvard Square. The attention of passersby will be grabbed by the gleaming, brightly-lit storefront - you can see a sparkling, spare space decorated in white, pink, and brown, with a refrigerated case containing brightly-colored cupcakes, from the street. I will admit that I was grabbed in such a fashion, though buzz about the Mass Ave location would have been enough to get me in there as well. Once you are inside and drooling over the case's contents, you may have two initial worries - I thought that (a) the cupcakes were rather small, and (b) there would be no seating available [two small tables are all they provide]. However, both concerns were readily allayed. Customers do not take a long time to eat a cupcake, so the seats rotate quickly - plus, you can always take your dessert to any bench or grassy expanse in Harvard Square if desired. And, oh my, the cupcakes! I would not have wanted a bigger cupcake considering their richness and intense flavor. Three varieties got the honor of being part of the initial taste test.

• DARK CHOCOLATE (Rich chocolate cake baked with Dutch cocoa, topped with buttercream frosting in vanilla or chocolate) - this cupcake was the perfect chocolate cupcake. The homemade buttercream frosting was also excellent, with a prominent creamy flavor. A fun added bonus of this cupcake selection was the choice of sprinkle color; yours truly (predictably) chose purple.
• CHOCOLATE CARAMEL (Chocolate oozes from inside moist chocolate cake topped with Sweet's delicious chocolate buttercream frosting and drizzled with melted caramel) - this cupcake had so many textures and flavors! Dense chocolate cake, fudgy chocolate cream, smooth chocolate frosting, and light, flavorful caramel all combined for a win of a cupcake.
• CAPPUCCINO (Delectable espresso flavored cake baked with Callebaut chocolate crowned with signature Sweet frosting and a dusting of cinnamon) - the cake could have had a stronger coffee flavor, and the chocolate was not readily apparent, but the cappuccino frosting was easily the best frosting in this taste test. The dusting of cinnamon was an extra bonus!

And, yes, Sweet gets extra points for stocking organic milk to help wash down the desserts! I had been hoping to find cupcakes on this side of the river that actually were kickass (Davis Square residents will accurately interpret that comment as derision toward an inaccurately-named cupcakery); thanks to Sweet, I no longer need to hope. Next time I stop by, I think I'll try the Big Poppy.

Beacon Hill Chocolates

Beacon Hill Chocolates is a quaint shop on the corner of Pinckney and Charles Streets (equidistant from the Common and the Charles T stop), in the heart of Beacon Hill. I first heard of this establishment while on a Boston Chocolate Trolley Tour – yours truly won a box of (4) chocolates from them, all of which were delicious. Over a year later I decided that four pieces were not enough, so I had to go back. What makes this chocolate shop unique?

• Beacon Hill. How could you lose with all those connotations implicit in the location?
• The shop stocks artisan truffles and various other chocolates from around the world. The candies – most in unique, tempting shapes and colors – are well-displayed in a lit refrigerated case at the front of the store.
• The rest of the store showcases the gift boxes for which they have become well-known: nostalgic seasonal and holiday prints, or classic Boston images, superimposed on light papier-mache boxes. I saved my tiny gift box, with a period image of the State House and Common, from the Chocolate Tour.

What was initially a casual check-it-out trip became a let’s-buy-chocolates trip after I saw the decadence within the truffle case. I purchased the following delights:

• Caramel Sushi (Chewy butter caramel and vanilla marshmallow rolled ever so slo-o-o-wly and dipped in dark chocolate) – the caramel and marshmallow were of a perfect texture, so that they were stiff enough to retain their shape but soft enough to melt happily in your mouth. The dark-chocolate dipping at the base of the spiral was the perfect touch. Mmm, mmm.
  
• Cookies and Cream Cone (Chocolate cookie & vanilla cream in a cone of dark & ivory chocolates) – I really enjoyed the vanilla cream, with flecks of chocolate cookie crumbs, alongside the different chocolate shells. This is probably the fanciest way I have tasted cookies and cream…and I would taste it again.
• Champagne Truffle (Dark chocolate blended with champagne and coated in cocoa powder) – the champagne flavor was very subtle, especially in the context of the strongly-flavored dark chocolate and cocoa coating. However, the subtlety worked in this case.
  
• Blood Orange Fleur de Lis (Dark chocolate ganache in a dark chocolate Fleur de lis shell) – the dark chocolate shell was enjoyable, and the shimmery orange-red coating on the fleur-de-lis was visually stunning, but the orange-flavored ganache seemed a bit artificial, and strong.
• Ginger & Lime Dragonfly (Dark chocolate blended with ginger & lime flavours) – the texture of crystallized ginger was noticeable in the candy, but both ginger and lime flavors were lost in the chocolate, and needed to be stronger.

These were a bit pricey, but I guess that is explained by the import process and neighborhood. The chocolate was interesting enough that I’m sure I will make several return trips!

A (Partial) Vegan Victory

I tasted the best vegan chocolate cake I had ever had a few weeks ago, when a coworker brought in said cake plus shamrock cookies for St. Patrick's Day. (Random, don't you think?) Fortunately, my coworker shared the recipe...which means I can share it with you! It's amazing how flavorful and moist a butter- and egg-free cake can be.

• 2 1/2 C flour
• 2 C sugar
• 2/3 C unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2 t baking soda
• 1 t salt
• 2 C warm water
• 2 t vanilla extract
• 2/3 cup vegetable oil
• 2 tsp distilled white or apple cider vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 350, and grease your pan(s).
2. Mix the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt.
3. Add water, vanilla extract, oil, and vinegar. Whisk until all is smooth.
4. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.
   

Greg and I whipped up this tasty treat in no time, and had a hard time restraining ourselves from licking up all the batter. Here, you can see the smooth, fluid batter (with occasional bubble) pre-oven.

30 minutes and 350 degrees later, voila - a cake (represent)!

A good cake demands good frosting - so, I was hesitant to top this dessert with vegan frosting, which can be salty with an odd consistency. Enter the following (resolutely dairy-based) frosting recipe. I would suggest adding the heavy cream to the butter along with the dry ingredients, as I had a dusty mess on my hands prior to the cream's incorporation.

• 1/2 C butter
• 3 C powdered sugar
• 3 T unsweetened cocoa powder
• 4 T heavy cream
• 1 t vanilla extract

1. Cream the butter.
2. Mix the cocoa and sugar; gradually add to the creamed butter.
3. Add the cream and vanilla, and beat until frosting is well-blended and fluffy.

The finished product was delicious! The cake is light, moist, and chocolatey, and the frosting is cool, creamy, and sweet. This is the best chocolate cake - counting both conventional and vegan recipes - and chocolate frosting I have ever made from scratch! We washed this rich delight down with a dessert-like beverage which, like the baked good, had vegan and non-vegan components. The blend of dairy milk, soy milk, and Godiva white chocolate liqueur is a winner.

Don't you wish you could have a piece?!

My Latest Bakery Obsession Is...

...Flour Bakery and Cafe, in the western part of the South End.

After hearing multiple impassioned recommendations of this establishment, I realized that I had to go - and, it has since become a weekend fixture, with a Flour baked item and/or meal characterizing three of the past four weekends. So, what makes Flour so incredible?

The baked goods, both breakfast items and desserts, have exceptional, unique flavors, and you can simply taste the quality:

• Orange chocolate muffin (in image, upper center) - this muffin has orange-flavored dough with bits of orange zest, candied orange, and possibly marmalade mixed in. It is covered in a thin, sweet, faintly-orange glaze. The chocolate used in the muffin is so rich and dense flavor-wise, and is so soft and pliable to the touch, that I think it might be either trufffle chocolate or extra-thick ganache. The orange flavor is neither too tart nor too sweet, and the chocolate-to-batter ratio is perfect! [A side note - stay tuned for a blog entry on my attempts at recreating this muffin!]
• Ginger pear muffin (lower center) - this muffin has a pleasant, faint ginger flavor, and moist chunks of pear are mixed throughout the batter. The pear chunks are the perfect texture for a muffin, meaning they are neither too mushy nor too raw. The top of the muffin is sprinkled with sugar crystals to counteract the faint gingery tartness.
• Vegan chocolate cupcake (to the right of the ginger pear muffins, dusted with powdered sugar) - this is the only "average" item I have yet encountered at Flour. The same chocolate bits found in the orange chocolate muffin are in this cupcake, which are delicious, but the cake itself has too many air pockets and not enough chocolate flavor. It is also extremely dry for a vegan baked item, considering the general vegan recipe convention of substituting oil for eggs.
• Chocolate cupcake - this is a cupcake to remember! It is extremely dense (one cupcake has considerable heft, more than a muffin 1.5 times its size!), and I'm guessing that the recipe started as a devil's-food recipe but was customized to allow for a more flavorful - and darker - chocolate. The replacement chocolate is rich, and the cupcake is almost creamy as it melts in your mouth. The finishing touch is an ample helping of white vanilla buttercream frosting, concentrically swirled across the top of the cake.
• Boston cream pie - I am usually ambivalent / leaning towards "meh" regarding Boston cream pies, but Flour's take on this traditional Omni Parker House dessert is worth eating! They get several things right that most BCP bakers don't: (1) instead of skimping on the most important ingredient, they use plentiful delicious chocolate on the top and sides of the dessert; (2) the cream filling is light, rather than globular and custard-like; (3) the cake layers in between the cream filling are actual vanilla cake, rather than the spongy, eggy excuse for cake frequently employed elsewhere.

I can't wait to expand upon this list! It has been hard to set a limit thus far. On top of the baked goods, they have delicious cafe fare AND cafe beverages:

• Turkey sandwich with cheddar cheese, mixed greens, and cranberry chutney (oho, chutney!) on homemade bread
• Lamb sandwich with goat cheese, mixed greens, and tomato chutney (another chutney? wow!) on homemade bread
• Tomato-fennel soup containing assorted mashed vegetables
• Made-to-order pizza with fontina cheese and slightly-sweet dough
• Spicy hot chocolate - in the increasingly-popular tradition of Mexican chocolate, Flour adds cinnamon and cayenne/chili powder to their standard cocoa to create an invigorating, mouth- and eye-watering beverage. You can customize the milk; I notice no weakness in ordering skim. The spicy-sweet combination is a winner, and while I may have become more used to that pepper punch after several helpings, it still poduces the same reaction!

So, who wants to go to Flour this very minute?! I am all for making two trips in two days. :) If not today, how about next weekend? Also, they have a second location along the Fort Point channel, so any Southie residents in search of exceptional cafe items can satisfy their needs. Happy Flouring!

Restaurant Week's Wins

The Winter 2009 Restaurant Week period has come and gone, and during its two weeks I was fortunate enough to experience several noteworthy restaurants. The desserts, for the most part, were also noteworthy!

I had wanted to dine at Sibling Rivalry in the South End, affectionately referred to as "Sib Riv," since summer 2008's Restaurant Week. This restaurant experience was well worth the wait, and will be worth a repeat visit! While most restaurants offer a limited menu for RW, Sib Riv let its guests choose from the full menu. The variety of Chef David and Chef Bob (yes, sibling)'s creations was impressive, though both my appetizer and main course were from David's side of the menu. My appetizer was handmade pappardelle pasta served in a mushroom sauce replete with rabbit meat (surprisingly tasty, although stringy), chanterelle mushrooms (flavor burst!), and dried tomatoes. This dish would have been a standout as a main course, and it was surely the best appetizer I ate in these two weeks. [An aside - you may notice a mushroom theme as a counterpoint to the dessert theme in this entry.] My main course was salmon, baked in a crisp pastry shell with spinach and mushroom duxelle, with a creamy lemon sauce and tomato fondue on the side. I really enjoyed this unexpected assortment of ingredients - I had never had salmon with mushrooms or spinach (two of my favorite foods) prior! The dessert was a rich little bit of caramel chocolate mousse. The mousse, which had hints of both milk and white chocolate, was complemented by a dollop of caramel creme anglaise as well as swirls of two different caramels across the plate. I enjoyed mixing the mousse, creme, and sweeter caramel (one was too bitter) into a bite of dense chocolate, airy sweetness, and sticky sauce. While the portion looked small, the mousse was dense enough to make you full when you were halfway through. Other Sib Riv items of note: (1) their bar uses Sailor Jerry rum in their house drinks - a rarity! (2) A delicious bottle of lighter-than-usual syrah was enjoyed. This restaurant has quite the wine list! (3) The dining room is not partitioned, and our booth along the leftmost wall had a full view of the restaurant, but it seemed acoustically separated from the general hubbub and gave a nice feeling of intimacy. I highly recommend Sib Riv for any special dining experience!

I cannot give the same ringing endorsement of Tangierino, a Moroccan restaurant on Charlestown's quaint cobblestone-and-gas-lamp Main Street. The decor and atmosphere are phenomenal - the booths and hallways are draped in sumptuous fabric; assortments of geometric lanterns with brilliant stained glass are suspended from every ceiling; framed "portraits" of veiled faces with strong, haunting eyes hang on vibrant red walls; seating is low, plush, and comfortable; strains of Mediterranean music (and the occasional elaborately-garbed belly dancer) make their way through the dining space. The food, however, does not merit enthusiasm. I considered my chicken b'stila appetizer to be a meat-sweet violation - and I am normally tolerant of bizarre flavor mixes. Imagine baklava...with chicken...and mint yogurt. Each ingredient alone would have been tasty, but the combination left me raising my eyebrows and pushing half of it to the side of my plate. I really enjoyed my main dish - seven-vegetable couscous - but a vegetarian friend who ordered the same dish found scraps of meat in hers. Those with dietary restrictions, beware! The last course was a flourless chocolate torte that would have been more accurately described as grainy chocolate gelatin. The "torte" was garnished with whipped cream, strawberries, and chocolate sauce; at least those tasted as they should have, though the chocolate sauce was somewhat weakly-flavored and thin. This dessert disappointment closed out a questionable meal. I had never tried Moroccan cuisine before, and I won't write it off entirely because I did enjoy my couscous, but Tangierino has definitely given me pause.

In the second week of RW, I found myself returning to an old favorite. Harvest, in Harvard Square, delivered a delicious meal yet again! The outdoor seating was understandably closed for the season, but our table was against a glass wall overlooking the courtyard - which, although empty, was still charming due to a fire blazing in a stone fireplace. Regardless of the time of year, this restaurant manages to be charming, inviting, and natural. My appetizer was a panzanella (bread salad) with crispy artichokes, parsley crostini, and burrata drizzled in balsamic vinaigrette. The burrata, or creamy mozzarella, was so smooth, and it provided a good textural counterpoint to the crunchy, bitter croutons. For the main course, I enjoyed a tart of forbidden black rice that was cooked with carrots, turnips, bok choy, and hen of the woods mushrooms. The explosive flavors of the rice and mushrooms were made even better by the faintly-spicy chile oil drizzled across the plate. I would love to recreate this in my kitchen sometime - while the spices may be difficult to replicate, the rice and mushrooms wouldn't. Dessert was a chocolate peanut crunch. This mousse-cake-like confection had a creamy white chocolate layer, a slightly denser milk chocolate layer, and a dry dark chocolate layer with peanuts and crisped rice interspersed. I was reminded of the Cheesecake Factory's chocolate tuxedo cream cheesecake, though this was fortunately lighter. A spoonful of vanilla creme fraiche and chocolate ganache completed the dessert. I enjoyed it, but I would have liked less white chocolate and cream / more crispy crunch!

My last Winter 2009 RW night was spent at Aquitaine, also in the South End. I had wanted to have dinner at this restaurant since going there for brunch once in 2008; dinner did not disappoint! To start, this restaurant has the perfect evening-dining atmosphere. There are high ceilings with exposed pipes and ducts, nearly-as-high (and wide!) windows, brick walls, mirrors, and soft incandescent lighting in the form of large globes pendant from the ceiling. The occasional Toulouse-Lautrec-esque poster completes this modern take on a traditional French bistro. The food was equally perfect! The tomato bisque appetizer had a robust tomato flavor, and was not overly creamy. Noteworthy details on this comfort classic were a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, and a large crouton thickly spread with goat cheese. I ordered tagliatelle with mushrooms as my main course; the hearty pasta was cooked in madeira cream and tossed with an assortment of mushrooms as well as spinach. Aquitaine's dessert was THE best of this four-restaurant tour - a dark chocolate torte with espresso-chocolate ganache and vanilla chantilly cream. The torte was warm, rich, and textured (hints of espresso powder added a pleasant graininess); it melted in my mouth! The ganache, warm enough that it was thin and spreadable / plentiful enough that it covered the entire plate, soaked perfectly into the torte and filled plenty a spoonful, and the vanilla creme acted as a breath of fresh air against the intense, dark flavors of the other ingredients. I could have eaten this dessert all night. Sigh, if only it were included on Aquitaine's regular menu...the thought of never eating it again is somewhat distressing! Perhaps this can be an inspiration for me to expand my baking into the world of fine desserts - a torte from my kitchen seems rather ambitious, but hey, I'll do what I have to to get a good dessert.

If you have not already, I hope you have the opportunity to try (most of) these restaurants! I, in turn, need to reevaluate my restaurant list, now that several of my top picks have been sampled. At this point, Bonfire and Sel de la Terre - oh, and Olives! - are pending...

Valentine's Day with Dancing Deer

Valentine's Day is personally synonymous with good chocolate, for two reasons - (1) tradition demands it, and (2) with the holiday being a celebration of love, I must pay tribute to, yes, my ardent love and appreciation of all things dessert. In addition to the standard chocolate hearts (milk, white, and dark chocolates this year), I more-than-dipped in to a Dancing Deer Baking Company Chocolate Lover's Medley. This desssert quartet was much more satisfying than the bakery's Christmas offerings, though as with most commercial bakeries I can think of several areas of improvement:

• Chocolate Espresso Cake - this is a moist, dense dark chocolate cake, with coarse ground espresso bean mixed throughout. The rough texture and bright taste of the beans are a pleasant surprise, though the coffe flavor in the batter is a bit sharp. The cake is drizzled in a rich white chocolate glaze. It comes in standard Bundt sizes - so, perfect for slicing and enjoying with vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, and a mocha. Wait, did I say that...?
• Chocolate Chunk Brownies - these brownies' claim to fame is their wonderfully high chocolate-chunk-to-batter ratio! Large pieces of semi-sweet chocolate are found throughout these fudgy brownies. Quality of chunks aside, the brownies themselves are average. I am sure that these are delicious right out of the oven; however, you can't expect that fresh taste to last in the weeks post-baking, and it doesn't. After being raised on from-scratch brownies, and perpetuating the same in my own kitchen, it is difficult for me to advocate for the processed variety.
• Triple Chocolate Chip Cookies - these cookies, conceptually, are the Best. Cookies. Ever. The rich chocolate batter has dark, milk, and white chocolate chips contained within. However, the cookies are rather dry, and the chocolate chips are small. How would I do this cookie differently? Use a heartier base (I'm guessing this one was on the runny side, as the cookies were rather large, flat, and thin), and larger chips or chunks. My goal would be a dense, chewy batter, with melt-in-your-mouth chips of every flavor. I look forward to trying my own variation sometime, and appreciate the inspiration!
• Triple Chocolate Heart Cookies - these cookies are the cutest, and most Valentine's-y, of the set. Small, thick heart-shaped chocolate cookies are drizzled in pink frosting and lightly dusted with pink crystallized sugar. That sweet frosting complements the slightly bitter cookies well; chunks of semi-sweet and dark chocolate, plus a dark chocolate base, constitute the cookie proper. I would like to see a softer, moister version of these cookies, but I understand that baked-good age and general need for preservation make those states difficult to achieve.

So, I felt the dessert love this Valentine's Day, yet I have several ideas of what Chocolate and I can work on to improve our relationship. I wonder where we'll be a year from now...

Let's Recap a Month's Worth of Desserts!

The holidays have come and gone, and here it's almost February 2009! What desserts have happened in that time? Christmas, of course, inspired plenty of baked goods and candies.

• Sugar cookies - we made these traditional cookies in several festive shapes (angels, bells, reindeer, large and small stars, snowflakes, trees), and used lemon juice to flavor them. This was a departure from years past, in which we gave the cookies a hint of vanilla. I plan on returning to vanilla in future years, as the lemon was an unexpected bit of tartness in a season of cozy, warm, spiced flavors. We tempered the tartness by coating the cookies in red and green sugar. The cookies were rolled slightly thicker than in years past, which meant there was more cheery deliciousness per bite!
• Peanut candy - these candies are so simple, yet so addicting! I can sum up the recipe in four sentences. (1) Put equal parts semi-sweet chocolate and butterscotch chips in a casserole dish; microwave them until they melt. (2) Mix the melted chips into a smooth mixture. (3) Pour a jar of peanuts into the casserole; mix them around until they are coated by the chocolate-butterscotch mixture. (4) Spoon dollops of candy-coated peanuts ono wax paper, and let them cool. Voila! I'll admit, I hoard these...and still have a handful or so pieces left.
• Cranberry coffee cake - this holiday breakfast classic is a typical sour cream coffee cake flavored with almond extract, with whole-berry cranberry sauce swirled throughout the better. The baked cake is then topped with an almond-flavored glaze. Put a sprig of holly in the center, and it looks like one of those classic Christmas puddings - but fortunately, it tastes much better! Yum.
• Dancing Deer Baking Company cookies - yes, commercial baked goods were consumed in addition to the homemade treats. We tried several different cookies. The best were the Molasses Clove cookies, which are moist, sugary, and spicy; these will become a fixture of Christmases future! The Holiday Shortbread comes in three flavors and multiple shapes (vanilla, chocolate, and snickerdoodle; stars, snowflakes, and drop); they were okay, but a bit dry. I liked them best dipped in hot cocoa! The Gingerbread Folk were rather lackluster. As you can see, there was a variety in the quality of the baked goods, but all of them were beautifully packed. I am a sucker for stylish tins and boxes; Dancing Deer wins on both fronts. I'd be interested in trying their other products, particularly their brownies and blondies. Also, their Valentine's cookies are so cute!

Since Christmas, I have baked a few items - Funfetti cupcakes and my classic Epic Brownie recipe for work events, and a cherry brownie recipe as a test to see if it was party-worthy. The best parts of baking and frosting with Funfetti are the colorful sprinkles that are embedded in the cake mix and sprinkled on top of the light pink frosting. The cheerful colors and bright vanilla flavor make Funfetti an easy crowd-pleaser. The Epic Brownies will receive an entry of their own in the future - yes, they are that good! :-P The cherry brownie recipe is similar to the chocolate-raspberry fudge cake baked in December, but slightly better. Better does not mean there will be a repeat baking, however. The sour cherry flavor, imparted by yet another Stonewall Kitchen jam, is really good, but the chocolate flavor isn't as strong as I would have expected from 8 ounces of baking chocolate. Also, the brownies are cakey rather than fudgy. I have had enough of baking with jams!

Here's hoping 2009 will have plenty of good dessert stories to share with you. :-)