Friday, October 26, 2012

Frozen Vegan Delights

I am an omnivore who enjoys the wide variety of food options before her. I'm thankful I don't have any allergies, etc, that prevent my enjoyment of the world's edibles - though if I were allergic to, say, dairy, I just learned that I could still enjoy ice cream!

Boston's Allston neighborhood has a wealth of eclectic foods, covering every possible ethnic and dietary niche. Several vegan establishments have popped up along the northern edge of Union Square, the most recent being FoMu Alternative Ice Cream. I was initially apprehensive of vegan ice cream; after all, what non-cream substance could approximate...cream...in a way that was authentic to texture and taste? Fear not, fellow skeptics. You can tell there's something different about FoMu, but it's not a bad difference.  The texture is similar to a thick ice cream, though a tad more crystalline. Also, some frozen desserts made from non-dairy milks are even better than traditional  ice cream, depending on the flavors involved. To illustrate that point, check out this Spiced Carrot Cake ice cream:
FoMu uses almond and cashew butter as the foundation of this "cream". Add a wealth of spices; large crumbs from incredibly moist, veg-filled vegan carrot cake, and voila - you have a rich treat that is just bursting with flavor. The almond and cashew butters don't impart too much nuttiness, but they create an earthier, heartier-tasting base than dairy cream. Carrot cake is an inherently nutty dessert, so the filling complements the base well. The vegan cake is also exceptionally moist, since wetter oils or fruit/veg purees replace eggs as the usual wet cake ingredients - and more moisture always means more flavor in baking. As for the spices? Well, spices and nuts have gone together, better, and more consistently, than spices and dairy ever have. This treat is one of the best combination desserts I've seen.

The Mocha Bean smoothie (shown here with Maple Walnut ice cream and a vegan cinnamon bun) is another example of nuts adding to the dessert experience.
This smoothie uses FoMu's espresso and chocolate ice creams, both of which have a soy base, and a milk of your choice - soy, rice, or almond. I've only had it with almond milk, since I find almonds' sweet nuttiness a good complement to coffee. Also, why be redundant by adding soy milk to soy ice cream? The resulting smoothie is a cool, creamy, and undeniably fresh concoction with milky chocolate, gentle espresso, and mild almond flavors. I'd say that freshness is a distinguishing characteristic of soy, which I love. I only tried a spoonful of the Maple Walnut ice cream, but I was struck by its strong, authentic maple flavor and its use of raw - as in, NOT toasted - walnuts. The cinnamon bun, on the other hand, was a waste. The pastry itself was stiff and airy, like a dried sponge. The glaze had an off-putting orange flavor, as if the zest flavoring it incorporated too much rind. FoMu should stick to their mock-dairy treats, and vegan cakes, instead of attempting other pastries. 

I highly recommend FoMu whenever you're feeling adventurous about ice cream. Also, it's the perfect thing to cap off a night whiled away at Deep Ellum or Lone Star!

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Smitten with Brownies


I've sworn by my mom's Double Chocolate Brownie recipe for years. If we've ever been at a party together where guests bring food, you've probably had them. They have won renown, both in her circles and mine, for their bold chocolate flavor and dense, chewy texture. They're so good that I sometimes call them my Epic Brownies - if there has ever been a food that could anchor a great sweeping saga, it is these brownies. I never thought I would want to bake a different brownie recipe...

...until a few weeks ago.

I love the Smitten Kitchen food blog, and use it for specific recipes and general foodie inspiration. I ended up clicking through her "Bar Cookies or Blondies and Brownies" category one afternoon, which led me to this simply- yet effectively-titled post. It looked easy enough to make, and if Deb has a favorite, well, I'm more likely to consider her's than a lot of people's. I did my best to ignore any qualms I had about cheating on my mom's recipe, and baked them that evening. The recipe as published on SK makes an 8x8-inch pan's worth of brownies; I prepared that amount for the initial test round, but I've doubled it since to accommodate a 13x9-inch pan. Yes. I've baked this recipe three times and counting. It's that good - and my friends and colleagues would agree.

Here's the Favorite Brownies recipe with slight rewordings, and doubled ingredients to enable double the brownies. My commentary is in italics.
  • 6 oz unsweetened chocolate, roughly chopped or broken. I used a combination of Ghirardelli chocolate and Baker's squares, since that's what was in my kitchen at the moment.
  • 2 sticks unsalted butter, plus extra for pan
  • 2 2/3 C granulated sugar
  • 4 large eggs
  • 2 t vanilla extract
  • 1/2 t table salt
  • 1 1/3 C all-purpose flour
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with parchment, extending it up two sides. Butter the parchment, or spray it with a nonstick cooking spray. The buttering is key - otherwise, the brownies will stick to the paper and you'll have a difficult time peeling them off.
  2. In a medium heatproof bowl over gently simmering water, melt the chocolate and butter together. The elevated bowl is unnecessary. Melt your butter and chocolate in a pot on the stovetop, stirring frequently so that the chocolate doesn't burn. Not only will this save you dishes, but it gives you enough room to mix in all following ingredients. My double boiler is NOT large enough for all the batter!
  3. Whisk in the sugar, then the eggs, and then the vanilla and salt. Stir in the flour.
  4. Scrape the batter into the pan, and spread until it's even. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out batter-free. 27 minutes worked best for me.
  5. Let the brownies cool before cutting into your desired size. These take a LONG time to cool, most likely because they're so dense. Give yourself plenty of time if you're baking them to bring somewhere!
Let's take a quick look at the gorgeous, deep, dark batter...
...followed by the shiny, textured surface of the fresh-out-of-the-oven treats! I love when the top layer of a brownie or bar cookie peels slightly away from the batter; this does that in abundance.
Lastly, behold the finished product! (Of course I put them in a Fortnum & Mason tin...but I wish I had chosen a better beer to join them.)

These brownies are easily the densest, fudgiest brownies I've ever had. If there weren't the cup or so of flour, they probably would be fudge. You should treat them like fudge, too - they get a little soft when eaten warm or at room temperature, so keep them chilled until you're ready to dive in. Also, a small piece goes a long way! I was initially concerned about all that unsweetened chocolate resulting in a bitter brownie, but the ample amount of sugar takes care of that. They're surprisingly sweet! The chocolate really shines in this setting, with the sugar to temper the bitterness and the butter to warm it up. (If I were ever to try making these with a lesser-percent-cacao chocolate, I'd have to cut back on the sugar.) In a word, phenomenal.

I'll still bake my mom's brownies. After all, the recipe's imprinted in my brain - I could go and make it in your kitchen, right now, if you wanted. And her brownies are beyond delicious! But if you're looking to be truly blown away by a baked good, or (dare I say it) smitten, I'd also want you to try Smitten Kitchen's.